The Matetsi Water Lodge is located on the Zambezi River with hippos and African Wild dogs sharing the land. Our travel to the Zimbabwe border began with a mud road. About an hour into the drive we came across a pride of young sibling lions. Three male lions with their manes still growing in and two females were lying under some bushes just feet off of the road. See had to back up the land rover so I could get a better view from the front seat. The young lions were enjoying their siesta so much that they totally ignored our presence.
Civilization! The first black top road (the locals called it the Tar Highway) we had seen in over a week was one leading from the edge of the Chobe National Park to the boarder with Zimbabwe. Botswanan soldiers passed us in open trucks , weapons at their sides. We were not told but it seemed obvious that they were on border patrol, protecting the park from poachers who cross from Zimbabwe.
Three African Brown Sables were of the the right side of the road. When See spotted them he took a quick u-turn with the land rover and went down a gravel road to get us a closer look. But we were not quick enough and the sables vanished into the jungle. I did manage to get a few photos that show their distinctive silhouettes.
At the border See had to leave us. He was no longer able to cross the border into Zimbabwe due to political strains between the countries. After passing through customs we boarded a van. Our driver said very little as he offered us some bottled water, stared the engine and took off with great haste. As we exited the boarder compound we noticed baboons had taken over the road way. About 30 of them were blocking our way and did not seem to want to relinquish their territory. The driver honked his horn and raced the engine. Finally they moved to the side of the roadway when a truck coming from the opposite direction showed no signs of slowing down for the primate pranksters. It was about an hours drive to the Matetsi Water Lodge and we were all very anxious to get settled in . To get a bath and have a good nights sleep on a real mattress. What an impressive place. The Matetsi of 36 private bungalows made of wood and stone with thatched roofs. It fronts on the Zambezi River. My bungalow overlooked my hot tub with some very pretty landscaping and the quick flowing river. The inside was very spacious and meticulously decorated. I took a bath before lunch. I took another bath after lunch and one more when we came back from Victoria Falls. Yea, I made up for the time in the jungle.
Victoria Falls was about a 30 minute drive from the Matetsi and we could see the plume of mist that towers a mile above the falls once we were on the main road. At
the falls http://www.vicfalls.com/live/ we spent several hours exploring the area and was amazed at the size. Rainbows can be seen from most every angle. I got very wet and spent the evening drying my money and passport. If a raincoat is offered, take it.After a great meal and some talk around the open pit fire we were all looking forward to a good nights sleep in a real bed. Each of us was given a whistle as we were escorted by armed guard to our bungalow. "Do not venture out alone. If there is an emergency blow the whistle", said the young guard in broken English. Hippos and wild dogs were what we were told to be aware of, but my guess is poachers and thieves were more likely the reason for such concern.
Livingstone, Zambia
"Dr. Livingstone I presume?" A statue of Dr. Livingstone is prominently fixed at the Victoria Falls National Park. The Zambezi Sun is located next to the falls and we could actually hear the rushing water from our rooms. ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livingstone,_Zambia ). We walked from the hotel site to the Falls several times over the two days we were at the Zambezi Sun. One trail leads to the upper head of the falls so that you are looking from the top of the falls. All I needed was a barrel so I could float down the rive and over the falls. I can see the newspaper headline now, " Crazy American barrels over the falls, lands on other crazy Americans swimming in the Zambezi River". Another trail leads to the great views of the wide expanse of the falls.
This is the place to buy those African souvenirs you just had to have. There is an outdoor bazaar just outside the gates of the hotel with most any type of African souvenirs you could want. They are willing to bargain. So much so, that I actually traded an old pair of tennis shoes ( still wet from my trip to the Falls in Zimbabwe) for a silver and amber necklace for my wife. Several other natural bead necklaces, that I purchased for nearly nothing, fell apart in about a month after I returned home as the humidity helped to hatch insect eggs that were embedded in the nuts used.
Repelling Down the Batoka Gorge
I gave my two son-in-laws the option of doing what ever they wanted to do on our last day in Zambia. We could not book the fishing trip we had hoped for, so we opted for a trip to repel down the Batoka Gorge. My impression was a short repel into this beautiful rugged gorge but once we were there I realized it was in fact 170 foot sheer wall of basalt to the bottom. As high as a 16 story building. What was I thinking! I have to admit I was having second thoughts. My two son-in-laws went first, both did a great job, appearing to have done it before. As I strapped on the harness and stepped to the ledge, I felt a slight pain in the pit of my stomach. Fortunately you are facing the wall of stone so your not looking straight down. I did very good the fist 100 feet or so. I pushed away from the wall , descended, pushed away from the wall and descended. Just as I though I might make this out alive the wall wasn't there as I swung in for another push. I had some how turned around backwards. With some slight panic, I descended in a free fall of about thirty feet. It took the helmet on my head an extra 10 seconds to catch up. By the time I hit the ground I was just barely controlling my descent and I almost knocked out the guide at the bottom. At least I didn't break my legs.
The walk out of the Gorge was a long hot trek. The scenery was fantastic but we were watching our footing more than rock formations and the river below. The higher we climbed the more out of breath I got. My heart was not only in my throat but I could feel it beating at the back of my teeth. What a fantastic way to end our journey. Dead tied, yet exhilarated knowing I had accomplished something few people will every get the chance to do.
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