African Safari/ Savute-Chobe

Savute
Dust in my throat was thick. The drive from Moremi to Savute was taking its toll on my tired body. The one lane mud washboard road was the only road to Savute. Haven't they heard of blacktop or concrete? At times it was very interesting. Just at the start of the day See spotted some tracks that led us to a female lion with three cubs which were about two weeks old. The cubs were as curious about us as we were of them. At one point the female got spooked and made a very aggressive move towards us, then moved her cubs one at a time further into the underbrush. Later that morning a 12 foot python was stretched across the road as it made a fast retreat to the woods to the west side of the road. Baobab trees dotted the landscape and as the wilderness opened to a never ending savanna, a single Acacia tree focused my thoughts. The quintessential African experience, beautiful landscape, heat, dust and wildlife.

When we finally reached camp, Alois and Kedibus had already set up the tents and were heating water for well needed showers. The make shift shower system gave you about three minutes of hot water so you needed to lather-up fast. There was always the option of a bath in the Chobe River if you don't mind being lunch for a 14 foot croc. There was also a flush toilet which was placed over a newly dug hole. A canvas water bag filled the tank so at least the first two users got to flush.
After watching the movie the "Ghost and the Darkness" more times than I care to admit, it was a real thrill later that night to see two male lions walking along side us. Seemingly oblivious to us they strolled through the camp area and past the road to the river. In no hurry but with likely purpose they made a turn into the jungle and disappeared into the failing light. That night sleep was not gotten by any of us. Lions roared and called to other members of their pride and encircled our camp through out the night. See told us, " Not to worry, if you can here them your okay". Exciting , scary and what I had come to Africa to experience. Something came very close to my tent. Between mine and the tent of my two son-in-laws. Another hyena was my guess, but one of my son-in -laws swore it was a lion who made himself comfortable next to his tent seeking a warm place to lay. Maybe. There were lion tracks all around the camp by the next morning. http://www.africanwildlifeguide.com/articles/life-of-lions/elephant-killers

The next day was spent tracking a leopard. See felt we were close . The tracks were not more than an hour old. Lions travel with large prides, sometimes as many as 15 lions but a single leopard would be difficult to spot. By late evening we retired back to camp. No leopard in sight.



Chobe

As we drove from Savute to northern Chobe I practiced my Setswana with See. He got a big laugh as I fumbled the words over my tongue. I have always tried to learn a little of the native language in what ever country I am visiting. Sometimes it can get you into trouble. In a Japanese restaurant in downtown Berlin, with the little German I knew, I ordered from a Japanese waiter who's German was not any better then mine. My family and I ended up with something that I have yet to identify. And the price? I thought the bill was for the purchase of the restaurant.

It began as another very cold morning but by mid morning I had already stripped off the jacket and top shirt. We stopped along the side of the road to have lunch. See pointed out tracks in the sand that indicated a cobra had recently crossed the road. They move from side to side and leave distinct markings. We explored the area and though we did not find the cobra we did find a zebra's skeleton left to bleach in the sun.

Chobe is home to more than 30,000 elephants. During the dry season thousands migrate and congregate along the Chobe River( http://www.culturefocus.com/botswana-chobe.htm ). We saw large herds along the waters edge and playing in the river. Also, dozens of hippos made islands in the murky water which you could almost walk across from the shore line of Botswana to Namibia. A red flag marked the disputed line between the two countries. Crocodiles! Nile crocodile were everywhere. A five foot monitor lizard was heading straight for a croc that was sunning. We thought for certain the lizard would be lunch for the 12 foot croc but the monitor lizard just passed by. I halfway expected the lizard to high five the croc as he passed.

Our camp site was at a high elevation away from the river. It was safer being away from the large herds of elephants, hippos and crocs. As we took the road into the camp site the Chobe River was to our west and was at it's widest expanse. You could stand at the cliff over looking the river and see for miles. Namibia to the west, Zambia to the north and Zimbabwe to the east.

The next two days were filled with sights and sounds that only a camping Safari can give. We were all sorry to see our time end in Botswana but were looking forward to a real bath with hot water and a soft bed.

NEXT STOP.... African Safari/ Zimbabwe- Zambia