Rick's Travel Raves and Rants

Italy

2009-08-06T19:07:00.016-05:00

ITALY
My second trip to Italy and I have to say that I appreciated the art and culture even more
this time around.

Lake Como was our first adventure. Certainly the homes of the rich and famous that dot this glacial lake are most impressive but the views of the mountainous steps to the Alps are awe inspiring. It was a cool morning but once on the lake the chill retreated as the clouds gave way to the sun.

An hour bus ride and we were back at our hotel. We were not to happy to find out our luggage had still not yet arrived and the clothes we were wearing were becoming a bit ripe. Fortunately the smell of garlic and parmesan cheese helped us to fit in at dinner. The food was exceptional and with all the wine you can drink the opera singer sound pretty good by the end of the night.

Given today's architecture with building of glass and metal one does have to wounder, how have we lost our way? With primitive equipment and unlimited imaginations the stone masons created some the worlds preeminent churches. Structures that today are centuries old and will likely last for a thousand years.

Florence: Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore is the church, Duomo, begun in 1296 completed structurally in 1436. If you don't have an appreciation for history then don't travel to Italy.

No matter where you visit in Italy there are churches that baffle the imagination.

This bridge, Ponte Vecchio, turned indoor market really captured my imagination. I think it was from a story I had to read in grammar school. It was some place deep in my subconscious.

Ponte Vecchio, the oldest of Florence's six bridges, is one of the city's best known images. Probably going back to Roman times with its stone pillars and wooden planks; it was built in stone but then newly destroyed by a flood in 1333. It was built again twelve years later.
The five arches became three and the main part was widened. The shops, housed under the porticos, first belonged to the Commune which then rented them out. But later on, towards the 15th century, they were sold to private owners and began to change through subsequent additions, raised parts and external terraces, extending towards the river and altering the original architecture in an anarchical, suggestive way.

This shopping center is new Florence with the rich and want to be famous strolling through the upscale stores. Watch out for crooks and pick pockets! Both in the stores and in the massive corridor.

UNDER CONSTRUCTION!! CHECK OUT PAST POSTS.

High on Atlanta's High Museum

2008-06-12T08:35:00.009-05:00

High Museum, Atlanta Georgia... Louvre and the Ancient World

OK! So you are not in to museums. I understand but this is also history with masterpieces from the beginning of our civilization. The museum itself is a unique structure and worth seeing even with out the art. So pass up the
contemporary paintings of white canvas with vertical lines ( who made the decision that this is art?) and head directly to the "Louvre and the Ancient World" exhibit.

As described by the High:
"The Louvre and the Ancient World features masterpieces from the founding cultures of Western civilization, including more than 70 works from the Louvre's unparalleled Egyptian, Near Eastern and Greco-Roman antiquities collections. Showcasing works dating from the third millennium BC through the third century AD, the exhibition examines the rise of the museum and its collections of antiquities under Napoleon, the discoveries and decipherment of hieroglyphics and cuneiform and the Louvre's leading role in excavating the cradle of civilization at the end of the nineteenth century and during the 20th century (most of the excavations for Near East).
The oldest works in the exhibition are drawn from the ancient cultures of Egypt, Susa (in modern Iran), the Neo-Sumerian city of Tello (in modern Iraq) and the Canaanite city of Ugarit (in modern Syria). Key works from these periods include the diorite Statue of Wahibre, Governor of Upper Egypt (Late period Egyptian); an Egyptian papyrus that belonged to the first Egyptian Museum whose curator, Jean-François Champollion, is credited with first deciphering hieroglyphics (Third Intermediate Period); an Attic black-figure amphora attributed to the potter Exekias (550–540 BC); and a dolerite Statue of Gudea, Prince of Lagash from Tello (Neo-Sumerian Period).
A special installation showcases the colossal, ten-foot-long Tiber—one of the largest sculptures in the Louvre's collections. The statue, discovered in 1512, decorated a sanctuary dedicated to Isis and Sarapis and was the pendant to a similar statue depicting the Nile, which is currently in the Vatican collection in Rome. The work explores the river's link to Roman mythology and its fertility. It depicts a river god accompanied by both Romulus and Remus, the city's legendary twin founders, while the reliefs on its base illustrate another myth about the founding of Rome and the river's beneficial effects."

Don't miss the remarkably well preserved clay tablets. I wonder if our CD's will last 3000 years? The exhibit is in Atlanta until September.
http://www.high.org/main.taf?p=3,1,1,1,1.

East Berlin Remembered

2008-05-11T09:32:00.021-05:00

East Berlin 1991.... Difficult to believe it is 17 years, this May, since we were there. What a historical time as we stayed in East Berlin. Most the Wall had been torn down by mobs of West Germans and East Berliners buy hand, by heavy equipment and by sheer will. Unification of East and West Germany had just been completed in October of 1990 with only the beginning of true integration of the two societies. Russian soldiers still patrolled some streets as misguided Marxist protesters longed for the "good old days".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berlin_Wall

I was scheduled to give a speech at Orthopadie & Rehatechnik Berlin International, a sort of international Trade Fair for the fields of Orthotics and Prosthetics

Housing arrangements were made by the organizers with my request to them that I bring my family and that we have a private bathroom if possible. We had no idea that they would make the decision to set us up with a hotel in East Berlin , some 45 minutes away from the Messe Berlin Trade Fair Center in west Berlin. At first I was inclined to complain to the organizers of Orthopadie but relented when we were told that this was the best hotel in East Berlin and after all, we had a private bathroom. The room was small, spartan and and an olive green. There were two beds, not quite the size of American size doubles, the bathroom was circa 1950 and no TV, no telephone. My daughters were horrified and Susie was about to leave to find a Holiday Inn any place in west Germany. I did manage to convince them that this was historical times. Being here in East Berlin at this time would be a great adventure. Little did I know how much of an adventure.

I had one day before I was to give my talk at the Orthopadie Trade Fair and decided I had better make certain how to get to the Messe Berlin World Congress Center. I had to get directions from the hotel clerk who at first thought I was Russian, since most visitors to East Berlin were Russian, but in my bumbling German I was able to get directions. We took the bus which had a stop not far from the hotel and we had a very "scenic" long drive through east Berlin to west Berlin. The wall may have been down but there was still a line of divide between east and west. The drabness of the east disappeared as soon as you crossed to the west side of Berlin. Much of east Berlin never transitioned from the1950's. Monumental residential buildings of the Karl Marx socialist era were cold and unimaginative. There was little color until you came to the divide. Some 45 minutes later we were passing the Messe Berlin World Congress Center. We did not get off the bus until the bus came to the end of its line. We disembarked and then waited another 10 minutes for the next bus back to East Berlin. Trying to explain to the bus driver where we wanted to go was a bit frustrating. You would think after being stationed at an Army base in Frankfort for two years I would have learned enough German to get by but more often than not everyone would want to speak English to me.

On the way back we had a better view of Brandenburg Gate, the iconic landmark of Berlin. Larger than I had imagined, it was littered with hucksters selling Tee shirts, replicas of the Brandenburg Gate and pieces of the Wall. Each piece of the Wall was unique in color and design and was displayed according to the location of the section of wall it came from. Before we left Berlin we bought a piece of history and also chipped several small pieces from a section of the wall that was still standing. A sealed box in our den holds it for future generations to see.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brandenburg_Gate

The next day I was off to give my speech at the Trade fair. What an experience. It was like talking at the United Nations. Everyone had on head sets as my speech in English was translated into 5 languages. Evidently it translated well into German since I latter received many letters expressing their interest in what I had talked about.

While I was at the Trade Fair, Susie and the girls decided to walk around East Berlin. There was a small plaza to the south side of the hotel with a fountain, Neptunbrunnen Fountain, featuring a mythological scene. As they walked past they notice a park with flowers in bloom. Bright colors stood in contrast to the dullness of the surrounding buildings. There was a crowd of people with festive music. Susie, with the girls in tow, though it must be some type of festival. After a few minutes of listening to music a speaker approached a microphone and Susie did not need to understand German to realize she and the girls were in the middle of a Communist Rally. She quickly grabbed the girls and went back to the hotel room and did not leave again until I returned that afternoon.

The next day we took the obligatory touristy tour of Berlin. A stop at the Brandenburg Gate, passed by" Check Point Charlie", several museums and by the evening we all had enough. So, we decided an adventure into the east may be more interesting. A boat trip down the Oder-Spree Canal into the Spree Forest appeared to be a different type of experience. The bus ride to the boats was revealing with some structures obviously bombed out during WWII still remained un-repaired. The small boats held only eight tourist, four of us and four Germans. The tour guide only spoke in German and made no attempt to translate to English. Though interesting to see, we were once again stunned by the drabness . The water stunk like creosote and was very murky. Many small weekend camps with gardens dotted the Spree Forest. I do mean small camps. My ridding lawnmower would barely fit into most of them. There were several stops we made to see some rather large homes in which the East Germans took enormous pride. Though from an American stand point, we did not know way. Interesting ,yes. Grand structures , no.

One thing for certain, east or west, the Germans know how to make beer. The beer halls are a friendly and fun places to visit. No one is a stranger. However, it was obvious that no one in the Eastern part of Germany was accustomed to tipping, which is as American as apple pie. I would tip, wait staff would look a bit confused. Sorry, we participated in the corruption of the service industry in East Berlin. Hopefully they will not be as presumptuous as American wait staff and ask " Do you need any change?". Gee I hate that.

My fondest memory in Berlin was the Berlin Zoo. A lioness had just given birth to three cubs two weeks before our visit. My two daughters were given the opportunity to hold the "kittens".

I will always remember their excitement and joy.

The integration of the two Berlins has been an enormous undertaking. A young couple from Berlin was on Safari with me last year and stated that the financial cost has grown exponentially and that there was still much to do. I hope once again to visit Germany and to see for myself the progress that has been made in East Berlin.

http://www.galenfrysinger.com/east_berlin.htm

Babes of Botsawna

2008-05-03T09:22:00.033-05:00

African Safari in Botswana... As we traveled through the Okavango Delta and north to Chobe the shear abundance of life was staggering. It is difficult to remember that we were in the Kalahari Desert with such areas of lush greenery and tropical jungle. But in the Delta there is a blessing of water that reaches into the desert like fingers. A healthy ecosystem is very evident by the huge number of young wildlife. From baboons to zebra new life was stretching its young legs around the delta. The country of Botswana has set aside enormous tracts of land for wildlife preserves with the hope of attracting ecotourist.

These baby lions were but a few of the many that we saw. At camp one night we were surrounded by lions as they called to members of there prides. As long as we could here them we were safe.

Young Vervet monkeys were as curious about us as we were of them.

This young pride of lions were just waiting for us, or so it seemed. The two males were just beginning to grow their mane.

Mom, big sister and little brother Kudu.

Baby baboon in tow using mom's tail as a rudder.

This baboon was only a couple of weeks old.

We were told that hippos usually are not out of the water during the mid day sun since they can get sun burn, but this family seemed to be enjoying the rays.

Botswana is home to over 30,000 African Elephants and you can see the devastation such large herds do to the jungle. It is like putting 30,000 bulldozers on cruise control and letting them go. Plus there is all that elephant dung.

Kudu buck with baby vying for his attention.

A female elephant can be very dangerous and unpredictable when she has a calf.

Huge herds of elephants gather at the edge of the Zambezi River in northern Chobe Reserve.

This is as close to a wild lion cub as you could ever hope for.

RICK-DA-SCALE

Here I will give my humble uneducated opinion of the places I have been. On a scale from 1-10 where 10 is nirvana and 1 is equal to having your right eye stuck with a hot poker while the left eye is forced to watch book reviews on C-Span.

Location_____________Rating____________________Comment

Botswana_____________9_______________________unbelievable wildlife

Safari Camp___________8_______________________tents can be cold at night

Food________________8_______________________ 5 course meals every day

Atlanta's Museum of Natural History

2008-04-27T09:45:00.016-05:00

Atlanta, Georgia... I had to travel back to Atlanta for the second time in two weeks. The drive was made more difficult by large stretches of construction on the interstate. It is always amazing to me that so many drivers ignore the construction signs and blast past the road crews just feet from melding chrome bumpers and tire tread with soft tissue and human skulls.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g60898-Activities-Atlanta_Georgia.html

Trying to stay awake , I popped in a book on CD. Though an interesting book, blending fiction and history of the 17th century, it lost a bit in translation from Spanish to English.

At times I felt my head drop just in time to jolt me awake. Fortunately I made it to Atlanta safely with no damage to me or anyone else.

Fernbank Museum of Natural History

Once again I found myself with time to fill. The Fernbank was only 10 minutes from the hotel and two hours would be more than enough time to see the entire museum.

http://www.fernbankmuseum.org/

Although it bills itself as "Smithsonian South" it does not quite pull it off where the bones hit the proverbial road. As you enter the octagon shaped great hall a 123 foot long Argentinosaurus dinosaur stands as the overseer of the Fernbank. Hanging from the ceiling is a flock of Pterodaustro and Anhanguera are tucked into three corners.

Of the three levels of the museum the Entry Level has the most interesting exhibit. "A Walk Through Time In Georgia" is a journey through lifelike geographic regions and prehistoric times of Georgia. The exhibit includes, the modern day sights and sounds of the Okefenokee swamp, a cave, a giant sloth and a dinosaur gallery. A group of wild turkeys first caught my curiosity with their life like appearance. Not to mention it was getting close to lunch time and the thought of turkey only tantalized my pallet. Much of the exhibit was educational in nature and is excellent for younger students.

There is also an I Max Theatre with a five story high by 72 feet wide screen, a cafe and a museum store. The Fernbank Museum of Natural History is a great place to take the younger kids, but I think your older teenagers may be a little bored.

Atlanta Zoo Is No Monkey Business

2008-04-18T09:27:00.027-05:00

Atlanta, Georgia... I had several hours to between meetings and it was a beautiful cool spring day. Although I am in Atlanta quite often I had never been to the zoo.

( http://www.zooatlanta.org/home.htm me.htm ) So I used this opportunity to do the zoo. Most of the zoos around the world that I have been to, U.S., Canada, Germany even India each gave me one special memory. In Berlin it was baby lions that my kids were able to hold in their excited young hands, in New Delhi it was White Tigers, long before they became the rage in magic shows. For evermore Atlanta will be gorillas.

This particular day it could be said was bad timing on my part. Approximately 30,000 Atlanta school children were disembarking their yellow buses as I approached the front gates of the Atlanta zoo. My plan to beat the crowds was to go left since most were going right. I would miss herds of screaming snot nose kids. Wrong! The zoo is not all that big and the kids were overflowing the grounds. I swear they were multiplying as they yep and hollered at the meerkats and panda. It seemed like I had no escape. So I relented and pushed my way through the runts. Hey! I had a camera, I needed to get in close to animal enclosure. So as I attempted to balance against the fence in front of the gorilla enclosure small hands tugged at my pants legs and bumped my arm as I missed a great shot. But slowly my surroundings faded as I was totally immersed in the lives of the gorillas before me. I was up close and could almost reach out for a quick stroke of the course hair of a silverback male. He stood as a majestic overseer of their encampment. The Atlanta Zoo is probably not the highest ranking zoo in the country ( only my opinion) but the Gorilla Enclosure is more than meeting any one's expectation on how to manage animals in captivity. This is proven by the shear activity of the animals , male displays of running and beating their chest, the interaction of the females and their young and the shear joy of the young playing with each other and the adults. This was the most active group of gorillas I have ever seen.

The old silverback male was Ozoum, a Western Lowland Gorilla. At forty-eight years old he is nearing the end of the average life span of fifty years for a captive gorilla. As he made his way through the enclosure you could sense the respect the other 22 gorillas had for him.

The family interactions were remarkable to witness.

Kali practicing his karate moves.

The twins, Kali and Kazie were having great fun wrestling. Much of their play serves their education for the future. Hard to believe that cute playful Kali will grow to over three hundred pounds and could snap my neck with his pinkie finger.

Mom enjoying the moment.

While I have been to many zoos which in total are better than the Atlanta Zoo, I believe the Atlanta Zoo's gorilla exhibit is the best I have seen. Thank you for such a delight, Atlanta!

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RICK-DA-SCALE

Location_____________Rating____________________Comment

Atlanta______________ 6___________________Too many cars and people

Zoo_________________8___________________Gorilla Exhibit

Restaurants___________7___________________You can find any type

Accommodations_________7__________________Downtown Location

(Holiday Inn Select, Capitol Center)

Dollywood Vacation

2008-04-09T19:50:00.009-05:00

Pigeon Forge, Tennessee..... If you are planning a vacation to the Smoky Mountains this summer you my want to allow a little time to visit Dollywood Theme Park located in Pigeon Forge.

It seems that every year Dollywood opens new and more exciting rides and adventures. This year it is RIVER BATTLE. ( http://www.dollywood.com/rides-attractions/ride-detail.aspx?AttractionID=1071 ). This ride pits passengers from different rafts against each other as they use water guns to soak the other. Originally they were going to use AK 47's but were afraid guest may turn the guns on the the park's staff. Plan on getting wet if you take to the River. There are still the classic rides such as the Thunderhead Roller Coaster. This wooden coaster has a 100 foot drop at speeds of 55miles per hour and I have to admit I closed my eyes when we took that fall. This was great fun but be certain to eat lunch after this one.

The old sawmill once moved lumber out of the mountains at ThunderheadGap. Wood is still the focus, but now the operation known as the Thunderhead is the wildest ride in the woods! Situated between two mountains, this massive wooden coaster stands tall among the mighty trees and takes advantage of the area's rough and tumble terrain to create a daring ride .

If you hurry you can still see the FESTIVAL OF NATIONS extravaganza. May 5 is the scheduled last day. International rhythm comes to life as the world’s most popular dances are presented, from Latin America’s spicy salsa and fantastic flamenco to Russia’s captivating Cossack. Ireland’s sensational step dancing in the highly anticipated return of Rhythm of the Dance, the show-stopping centerpiece of Celebrate Ireland featuring Irish dining, crafters, entertainment and more. Daring dance steps are just the beginning of Dollywood’s seven-week celebration of music, artistry, foods and crafts from around the globe during Festival of Nations.

If you are not able to make this one there are many more Festivals and special entertainment planned.

Our log cabin Hibernation Hideaway is just across the road from Dollywood. Each morning we wake to the sound of Dollywood's steam engine train as it blows it's whistle at the start of the day. We can watch the puff of smoke top the hill. It is sound and sight we enjoy. Dollywood is so sugary sweet you could end up diabetic after a week. Great family fun that should not be missed.

Air Travel Moves Toward Vertical Flight

2008-04-06T09:40:00.005-05:00

Orlando, Florida.... Word from airline industry insiders is that the air travel is about to take a stand up position. At a time when the FAA is under fire for not adequately managing airline maintenance and Air Traffic controllers claim it is only a matter of time before a major accident happens, the large air carriers are attempting a major overhaul to increase passenger density on planes. They are hoping to boost profits that have been dwindling due to high fuel cost.

Stand up and be counted.... Vertical Flight Airliners or VFA's will begin this fall. No seats just polls and hand loops as you stand for the entire flight. Short commuter flights of 45 minutes or less will be the first routes to use the VFA's. One worker at the Orlando International Airport reported that he saw all the seats being removed from a Delta Connection Flight last week. There will be an estimated 20% increase in the number of passengers a plane can carry. Weight is the limiting factor. Some business travelers were excited about the lower ticket prices which are estimated to be 32% less according to a undisclosed source at United Airlines with Delta reporting that they will beat that by 2%. Sound far fetched? Just remember that in a society where seat belts are required in almost and moving vehicle the airline industry has elected to move you from one concourse to another via a fast moving train or monorail that has no seats, only polls and hand loops attached to the ceiling's frame. This was no accident. An insider at a major airport hub reveled that the airline industry purposely introduced this system of transport as a test to see if the public would accept such an inconvenience. And we do.

Bring one dollar bills... A spokes person from Hustler Magazine stated that though they were diametrically opposed to the airlines increasing their profits it may be an opportunity for some woman to pay for their flights by poll dancing their way to Newark. The now defunct Hooter's Airline had no comment but did say they wished they had thought of this first.

Woolly Mammoth found in the Yukon

2008-04-04T08:51:00.019-05:00

Yukon Territory, Canada...............As we traveled over White Pass crossing from Alaska to the Yukon Territory there was a change. The wind howled, the snow was heavy on the ground and there was little else in the open tundra. Low growing vegetation stunted from the permafrost dotted the forbidding landscape. But in a very short 30 minutes the sun began to shine and there was a change in the season. No snow at the small rugged frontier town of Carcross.

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The Woolly Mammoth....Sorry, we did find one but he is a creation of a very talented taxidermist who has an exhibition set up just outside of Carcross (Caribou Crossing).

http://www.yukonwild.com/

Another extinct creature brought back to life.

This was real.! A goat used the horse as a vantage point.

Unexpected sights in the Yukon : Desert and Caribbean Sea.

Cozumel --- Quest of the Magical Carpet

2008-04-01T09:57:00.016-05:00

Cozumel, Mexico.......... We had traveled to Cozumel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cozumel) on four different occasions . This time it was a port of call of a five day Carnival cruise out of New Orleans. This was a inexpensive cruise and with no air travel it was down right cheap. However, you do get what you pay for. The ship out of New Orleans is a bit older and certainly does not compare to newer ships. I thought the food was good but the rest of my family did not think much of the quality. Service was okay but not the spectacular service I have come to expect on cruises, but maybe I am just getting old and cranky.

Shopping....... As I have stated in other post it is life threatening to have to follow your wife on a shopping trip. Studies have shown that men are more at risk of having a heart attach when shopping with their wives than at any time. Having said that, Susie noticed that there were several oriental carpet dealers in Cozumel and we had been trying for months to find the perfect carpet for our redecorated dinning room. So we passed the beaches and the Mayan ruins to go on a quest to find the magical carpet that we both could live with. We visited several dealers and

of course they all had the deal of a lifetime. Make them an offer, no amount was to little to consider. After several hours of a constant bombardment of rolling and unrolling rugs we settle in a store called the Grand Bazaar. One thing we learned before the Cozumel quest was that oriental rugs have a list price then a sales price. This is the case in most stores and the Internet. The sales price is almost always 50% less then the listed price. So we were prepared to negotiate with the salesman at this store, which was one of the stores listed on Carnival Cruise Line's shopping recommendations. After viewing several rugs, the only one we both liked was hanging on the wall. It was a mire $36, 000.00 Yes dollars, not pesos. It was made in China and was hand woven of silk. Well, we were not even close to a negotiating point with this one, so out of shear frustration the salesman dug deep into the piles of rugs, had his two helpers pull a rug from the pile and rolled it out to display its colors. It was the large 9 feet by 11 feet hand woven wool Turkish rug. I liked the color and the design and Susie was excited . This was the one she had been picturing in her mind. Only $13,00.00! Holy pesos! Did I see one like this in the Penney's catalog for $150.00? Oh, he showed us the weave and how even the bottom side looked to be the finished side and how the colors changed depending on the angle you looked from. It was even signed by the weaver. "Make an offer senor", he said. We had only expected to spend about $2500.00 max on a rug, this was out of our range, I explained. Before I could say another word he was off to his boss and came back with a price of $3,200.00. If the original list price was legit then $7500.00 would be a normal sales price, so as my mind ran the numbers I let emotion get the best of me and said yes even before Susie gave the nod. What a deal! Of course on the way back to the ship I was starting to have buyer's remorse. Did I just get ripped off? After I was back on the ship I began an Internet search of Turkish rugs and found Ali Baba's in Turkey. They made the rug we had just purchased. In full color that was the one we had just purchased. I felt better and have to admit it looked fantastic as soon as we rolled it out on the floor at home. It took only three weeks for shipping, a week faster than promised.

I was now at least able to relax and watch the sun set as we sat sipping adult beverages and musing over our purchasing prowess.

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RICK-DA SCALE

Here I will give my humble uneducated opinion of the places I have been. On a scale from 1-10 where 10 is nirvana and 1 is equal to having your right eye stuck with a hot poker while the left eye is forced to watch book reviews on C-Span.

Location_____________Rating____________________Comment

Cozumel_______________6______________________Too touristy

Shopping_______________7______________________Only if you like to haggle

Carnival Cruise Line_______6______________________Spoiled by other lines

Charging Elephant in Botswana

2008-03-26T19:24:00.029-05:00

Okavango Delta, Botswana.... This bull African elephant charged our land cruiser at mid day. We had just watched a small heard of elephants pass directly to the east of us. This male was not happy to see us on his trail and made this mock charge. Had he really wanted to do damage he could have easily trampled us and the vehicle. Just two weeks earlier a local villager was trampled to death.

Chobe Preserve in northern Botswana has some of the largest elephants populations in the world. An estimated 30,000 elephants roam the savannas and jungles.

This young bull was in musk. You can see the fluid seeping from the glands at the sides of his head.

New Life and death are frequent sights on the savanna.

Elephant herds move north during the dry months of winter. They find refuge on the Zambezi River at the northern edge of the Kalahari Desert.

Older bulls travel alone. Their behavior can be very unpredictable.

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RICK-DA SCALE

Location_____________Rating____________________Comment

Botswana______________8________________Fantastic animal viewing

OkavangoDelta__________7_______________ Less large game viewing

Food on Safari___________7______________ 5 course meals /fresh baked bread daily

Accommodations_________6_______________Camping in a tent

Okaloosa Island

2008-03-22T10:21:00.028-05:00

Weathering the Storm

We are just back from a week on Okaloosa Island, Florida. http://www.destin-ation.com/okaloosaislandflorida/index.htm . Travel to Florida was it's usual bore with more traffic on Interstate 10 than usual because of the Spring Breakers. Once the Snow Birds ( northern winter renters) go home, we have to attend to our condos. Cleaning carpets, replacing missing items and just checking things out. We were met by a wet and wild Wednesday. The storm that blew in brought 40 mile per hour winds and very agitated Gulf water. The massive waves collided with the sand beaches and reshaped them at it's will. Gulls attempted flight but were ground as the wind pushed them down to their sandy perches. The roar of the wind muffled the gulls' call for relief. A few brave souls ventured on to the beach but were left with little dry cloths or self pride.

What a Diffrence a Day Makes

Thursday was a day of dreams. The temperature was a mild 72 degrees, the wind had reduced to barely a fat man's breath and the sun was not veiled by even one cloud. By the afternoon I had finished my chores around the condo so I headed to the beach. Okaloosa Island is known for its sugar white sand beaches and fortunately not much damage had been done to them the day before. There can be some very strong rip tides along this beach especially since Hurricane Ivan reshaped the coast line. Several surfers attempted to catch the perfect wave, but most of the beach goers sat on their perfectly aligned beach chairs catching the sun's rays. What is so great about Okaloosa Island is that there is a building height restriction so no condo can build higher than seven stories, unlike Destin and Panama City which build to the heavens. This translates to less people on the beach and real estate keeps its value , even in slow times.

Food for Thought

On the second night we had dinner with friends at an excellent Italian restaurant called Pranzo. http://www.destin-fwb.com/Activities/Restaurants/.

The restaurant is located on Santa Rosa Blvd. to the north of the Brooks Bridge. Most people on the island use this Bridge as the anchor for directions to most any other place on the island. As we entered this classically styled restaurant the aroma of garlic tantalizes your nose. The smell was so thick in the air that I could actually taste it. Our friends are a local developer and a real estate agent who were just back from a sailing around the Baja Peninsula. Small talk of the trials and tribulations of sailing for a month and singing the praises of new grandchildren led to more intense discussions of new development on the Island. Although I can not discuss the specifics, the information has not been made public yet, I am enthusiastic about the new development that will be changing the Island for the better. No new condominium projects will be beginning any time soon. This should be good news to anyone who owns a condo along the Emerald Coast.

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RICK-DA SCALE
Here I will give my humble uneducated opinion of the places I have been. On a scale from 1-10 where 10 is nirvana and 1 is equal to having your right eye stuck with a hot poker while the left eye is forced to watch book reviews on C-Span.

Location____________ Rating_____________ Comment

Okaloosa Island________ 8 _______________ Best time to visit is October

Pronzo Restaurant______ 7_______________ The calamari is the best

Island Beaches_________ 8_______________Sugar white sand

Fireworks at Fort Walton Beach

2008-03-12T19:03:00.031-05:00

Ft Walton Beach, Florida

We traveled to Fort Walton Beach, Florida on New Year's Eve. Yea, I know it's more than two months since the new year but there was more pressing things to write about the last couple of months. So you get the low down now.

A north wind slapped across my face as I looked down to Choctawhatchee Bay. It was clear but for a few clouds in the southern sky stacked like book cases above the Gulf of Mexico. I almost tripped walking up the spiral stairs to the private roof top sun deck of our penthouse. Oklaloosa Island can get down right cold this time of year http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Okaloosa_Island . I thought Florida was the sunshine state, at least that is what the local chamber of commerce and vacation hucksters claim. As I tried to shield myself from the wind I felt so fortunate to have such fantastic views in all directions. I believe we have about the best on the island. New Year's Eve night the view of Destin to the east, Ft Walton to the west with multiple firework displays at each location gave our condo a magical feel. In addition many home owners on the north side of the bay put on some very extravagant displays of their own. Some probably have to take on a second mortgage just to pay for the pyrotechnics.

Day break on the beach is fantastic. After staying up until the fireworks stopped we enjoyed some breakfast and headed to the beach. Watching the sun break through the morning clouds is worth missing your beauty sleep. Even though I really do need it. On this morning several sea snakes sat lifeless on the beach. Did they come for the New Year's celebration? An older man walked from the opposite direction. A metal detector in hand and a head set perched cockeyed on his head. Please, put me out of my misery should you see me like this on the beach, missing the sun rise and the sounds of gulls perchance to find trinkets in the sugar white sand.

Eating at Sunset

There are a surprising number a very good restaurants around the Fort Walton area. One of my favorites is Rick's Crab Trap. No, this is not my restaurant. http://www.mytravelguide.com/restaurants/ctrestaurants-7400801-United_States_Florida_Fort_Walton_Beach_restaurants.html _Fort_Walton_Beach_restaurants.html. Located at the foot of Brooks Bridge it has the atmosphere and the food that make this a don't miss place. The sunsets dance on the still bay waters while you sit outside sipping margaritas and munching on fried shrimp and oysters.

Just down the street is a unique Italian Restaurant. You may not want to go there during the day. The outside is poorly maintained and decorated in sort of an eclectic style of old Italy on acid. Even the inside decorations are fascinating to be polite, but the food is very good. The last time we were there a Mexican musical group was playing a mix of mariachi and Sinatra music. Go figure!

Canoe Cane Bayou

2008-03-07T09:46:00.027-06:00

Cane Bayou

If you are going to travel to New Orleans for the Jazz and Heritage Festival http://www./no jazzfest.com/index.php?http%3A//www.nojazzfest.com/music/gala.php in the next couple of weeks, you might want to take a side trip to Cane Bayou. After a couple of days of ear numbing music, excess eating of Cajun food and way too much Abita Beer, the thirty mile trip north of the city, by way of the causeway, may be just what you need. Taking a canoe or flat bottom boat down this pristine bayou will calm your ears and your stomach.

CYPRESS ADORNED WITH SPANISH MOSS

COLOR IS JUST MAKING A SHOWING

The bayou is bordered on the west side by Fountainbleau State Park http://www.stateparks.com/fontainebleau.html and on the east by Big Branch Marsh http://www.fws.gov/bigbranchmarsh/igbranchmarsh/. Sitting low to the water in a canoe is the best way to enjoy this waterway. Just keep your hands and feet in the boat so alligators aren't tempted. They love the smell of stale beer.

Osprey

A pair of Osprey moved their previous year's nest from the water's edge to a dead old growth cypress tree about a hundred yards east. I could just barley see an osprey chick popping it's head out looking for mom and pop.

Proud parent diverting my attention away from the nest.

I watched the male osprey swipe a clump of Spanish Moss from a low hanging tree. He made a wide circle and when he felt safe he dropped to the nest, adding a bit more cushion to the den floor. Even a bird likes comfort.

After being entertained long enough by the Osprey I moved further south, closer to the bayou's exit into Lake Pontchartrain.

An alligator's den sat exposed as the water level was low. I have to admit I was a little more cautious when I came close to the bayou's banks. My small canoe would be no match for an eight foot gator. But isn't this why I come here, for the beauty and the possibility of danger?

San Diego,California

2008-03-01T08:52:00.012-06:00

San Diego

The rental car had a GPS navigation system and it was a good thing. Travel around San Diego can be tricky especially when you are not used to the heavy traffic of west coast highways. This business trip last August was a zigzag drive from Orange County to El Centro with my home base in San Diego.

For a state that always boast "Green Initiatives" Californians still hang on to their love of the automobile. I did my best not to get caught in commuter traffic but on more than one afternoon I sat for hours trapped between Humvees with soccer moms transporting their kids and stylish convertible roadsters captained by captains of industry. At least the scenery is worth taking in at slow speed. The Mediterranean climate certainly lent itself to rolling down the windows and letting the salt air in.

The Beaches from San Diego Bay to La Jolla have a personality all of their own. I am used to flat sugar white sand beaches. But here the darker course sand acts as a threshold for rugged cliffs and rock formations http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Diego,_California. Even the weekday seemed busy along this stretch of natural wonder.

Hotel
Ramada Plaza Hotel Circle is located off Hotel Circle South. It has the usual amenities with swimming pool, high speed Internet and a continental breakfast is included. If you like a real breakfast with cholesterol and caffeine then you can have breakfast at the hotel's Tickle Trout Restaurant or go next store to Rick's Cafe. Rick's has great pancakes for a considerably cheaper price.

Old Town San Diego is only a one mile drive and is home to the Old Town State Historic Park. There are original and reconstructed buildings of San Diego past. Just out side the gates are a multitude of restaurants and shops with authentic Mexican foods and goods. I ate at Casa de Reyes Mexican Cuisine restaurant and was pleasantly surprised since I am not usually a big fan of Mexican food. If you want to end a hard day with a little fun you can always go to the Tequila Museum. On the way back to the hotel look for a small state park on the right hand side of the street. It is not well marked but you will see a small parking lot. There are some very interesting hiking trails into the hills. It is worth a stop, but only if you did not stop at the Tequila Museum first.

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

The largest state park in California is the Anza- Borrego Desert State Park. It is a two hour drive east from San Diego. This is the closest I guess I will ever get to an alien moon scape since my application for astronaut training was turned down by NASA in 1976. The letter did say my application would be held on file, so I may still get the call before I'm eighty.

With 500 miles of dirt roads and many miles of hiking trails this desert takes more than a few days to explore. I only had one free day to enjoy the wide open vistas, palm groves, cacti and wildflowers http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=638. I was not well prepared for the sun and heat I would experience. Next time I will bring a hat, sun block, better sun glasses and a better way to carry bottled water. It was a mild day, a west wind kept the temperature to a tolerable 115 degrees. The scenery is absolutely fantastic. Rocks were doted by an occasional iguana. Fortunately I did not stumble upon any rattlesnakes. I did hope I would see big horn sheep ( borrego in Spanish) but they proved to be elusive. Walking the rugged , at times uphill trails in this type of heat was exhausting and I did not last more than a couple of hours before I took refuge at the visitor center. The center is worth a look if for no other reason it's unique architecture. Don't miss walking to Font's Point in the Borrego Badlands area of the park. It is a sight to behold.

Driving from the park I stopped in the town of Borrego Springs where I had a quick lunch at a cafe that looked like a movie set from Easy Rider. A good meal in this rugged, often unforgiving, always beautiful territory called Anza-Borrego Desert.

Orlando

2008-02-24T15:34:00.016-06:00

Orlando, Florida

Travel to Orlando on a recent business trip was rather fun on a Delta Connection, Freedom Airlines' ERJ plane. Only three seats wide and over head bins about the size of my SUV's glove box. Given the choice of placing my carry on under the seat in front of me or having it checked, I opted to have my knees to my chest for an hour and fifteen minutes. If you are over 5'11'' this plane is not for you. I really can't complain since my tab for this trip is being paid for by another company.

Airport Transportation

The Orlando International Airport has lush tropical landscaping on it's expansive grounds. It would only be better if some of the money allotted to the landscaping would be used to better coordinate ground transportation. I realize the Airport Authority has little control of private transportation companies but Mears Shuttle service should be reconsidered as a transport company. Two hours from the airport to the hotel, 15 miles away, is a huge waste of my time. Each of the people at the business meeting had the same experience. Get more drivers and shuttle buses, Mears or turn in your airport passes. A taxi ride is about $50.00 but it may be worth the money.

Hotel

The Carib Royale Hotel is isolated and located a distance from anything that matters in Orlando, but it is very nice accommodations with every room being a suite. Plus, as I mentioned, I am not paying for this , so I really can't complain. I was able to turn on the TV in the living room and the bedroom at the same time and not miss a word on CCN ( as if this really matters) as I walked from the bed to the computer. There is some very nice landscaping on the hotel complex but it gets lost to the dark of night with little emphasis on lighting.

The first night I ate a Jeffery's Restaurant and Piano Bar on Sand Lake Road, which is owned by Bar Harbor Seafood Company. We had a group of 15 which the restaurant staff accommodated well. The food was very good. The menu was a little thin on seafood and fat on pricing.
http://www.orlandosentinel.com/entertainment/orl-dining0807apr08,0,50718.story

If you are looking to keep your expense account low the Carib Royale has a take out cafe open 24 hours per day on the first floor of the main building. It is very inexpensive, under $10.00 for a hot meal. This may not be what you want to do if you are trying to impress clients.

Illicit Animal Body Parts Trade

After visiting several souvenir stores I was appalled to see multiple animal body parts being displayed for sale. One counter had tails of mice and dogs and there was a full section of the store that had row after row of mice ears. Even more disturbing was the fact that after an individual purchased the mice ears they would allow their child to place them on their head. What are we teaching our children? The black ears are mounted on skull caps and after the child would make a few steps the ears would flop to one side. When questioned why the stores had such horrific items for sale, most answered that this was standard practice in and around Orlando. I, also, saw dozens of shrunken mouse heads for sale with a red bows, as if it was a gift wrapped present. This entire trade of animal parts was sickening to me, even though I come from a state where alligator heads are taxidermied and sold next to hot sauce. I tried to investigate this further but to no avail, so instead I buckled to tourist-du-souvenir pressure and bought a pair of those ears which now sit next to my alligator head and a copy of the "Best of Orlando".

Northlake Nature Center

2008-02-17T19:48:00.017-06:00

Eagle Trail

Travel from New Orleans is a quick 45 minutes to the Northlake Nature Center in Mandeville, Louisiana. So if you find yourself waking up face down on Bourbon Street with the sweet smell of pee and stale beer you may want to take this short trip just for the fresh air.

The Nature Center is adjacent to St. Tammany's Pelican Park, a huge youth sports center with multiple fields for soccer, baseball, football, basketball and the new skateboarding area.

( http://www.northlakenature.org/ ). It is a mix of habitat with swamp, wetlands, pine savanna and hardwood forest making this small 400 acre track a diamond in the rough. Which is why I like it so much. There are three main trails, North loop, South Loop and Eagle Trail. All are easy trails to manage except when it rains then you might have to don your shrimp boots ( that's white rubber boots, if you don't know). Eagle Trail, a 3/4 mile hike, has some of the prettiest scenery. It begins at the Hwy 190 parking area with a raised walkway over cypress laden swamp and beaver ponds filled with turtles, egrets and wood ducks. This particular day I saw more squirrels than usual jumping from tree to tree as the sounds of birds lingered in the thick humid air. The mud trail narrows to a thin cut through hardwoods and pines with palmetto palms guiding your way. Summer here is not easy, hot humid days and mosquitoes so thick you may need a blood transfusion by the time you leave.

North Loop Trail

It is actually a wide fire road that begins at the Grey Field in Pelican Park. You can make this one even with a hangover. Only a short way in and you feel as though your miles from no where. It feels wild out here in this pine savanna. This area took a big hit during Hurricane Katrina when thousands of pine trees were destroyed and then again as the weakened trees that were left became an easy target for pine beetles. A restoration effort is under way. With more open range you get to see the expanse of this habitat for deer, rabbits, raccoons and a variety of birds. As I walked along I noticed a large amount of animal droppings that appear to be coyote. A great deal of animal fur was in the scat. Paw prints along the muddy trail confirmed my suspicion. I have to admit I was a bit more cautious as I walked along, watching my back now and again. A water moccasin dashed from the warm sun and headed for refuge in Bayou Castine as I quickly jumped back to get out of it's way. Getting bit by a poisonous snake when alone would not be a good thing. I would have to use my pocket knife that I haven't sharpened since, well I hate to admit. So after trying to open the wound with the dull knife I would then have to suck out the venom. The snake bit would likely be at my ankle. I doubt that I am actually flexible enough to bend over to reach the bit site. So it really doesn't matter that the knife is dull, I will likely die from the poison anyway.

By the way there is no entrance fee to the Nature Center.

Cane Bayou

Just a short 2 1/2 mile drive east from Norhlake Nature Center is Cane Bayou. You can put in a flat boat or canoe at the free public launch just at the foot of the bridge that crosses Hwy 190. I really enjoy cruising this bayou. It is a very beautiful natural area that is bounded by Fountainblue State Park (http://www.stateparks.com/fontainebleau.html) on the west side and Big Branch Marsh (http://www.fws.gov/southeast/pubs/facts/bgbcon.pdf) on the east. The bayou empties into Lake Pontchratrain. If you are lucky you may see a wild hog at the water's edge or an Osprey nesting in one of the old growth cypress trees.

African Safari/ Zimabawe-Zambia

2008-02-09T09:44:00.011-06:00

Zimbabwe/ Victoria Falls

The Matetsi Water Lodge is located on the Zambezi River with hippos and African Wild dogs sharing the land. Our travel to the Zimbabwe border began with a mud road. About an hour into the drive we came across a pride of young sibling lions. Three male lions with their manes still growing in and two females were lying under some bushes just feet off of the road. See had to back up the land rover so I could get a better view from the front seat. The young lions were enjoying their siesta so much that they totally ignored our presence.

Civilization! The first black top road (the locals called it the Tar Highway) we had seen in over a week was one leading from the edge of the Chobe National Park to the boarder with Zimbabwe. Botswanan soldiers passed us in open trucks , weapons at their sides. We were not told but it seemed obvious that they were on border patrol, protecting the park from poachers who cross from Zimbabwe.
Three African Brown Sables were of the the right side of the road. When See spotted them he took a quick u-turn with the land rover and went down a gravel road to get us a closer look. But we were not quick enough and the sables vanished into the jungle. I did manage to get a few photos that show their distinctive silhouettes.
At the border See had to leave us. He was no longer able to cross the border into Zimbabwe due to political strains between the countries. After passing through customs we boarded a van. Our driver said very little as he offered us some bottled water, stared the engine and took off with great haste. As we exited the boarder compound we noticed baboons had taken over the road way. About 30 of them were blocking our way and did not seem to want to relinquish their territory. The driver honked his horn and raced the engine. Finally they moved to the side of the roadway when a truck coming from the opposite direction showed no signs of slowing down for the primate pranksters. It was about an hours drive to the Matetsi Water Lodge and we were all very anxious to get settled in . To get a bath and have a good nights sleep on a real mattress. What an impressive place. The Matetsi of 36 private bungalows made of wood and stone with thatched roofs. It fronts on the Zambezi River. My bungalow overlooked my hot tub with some very pretty landscaping and the quick flowing river. The inside was very spacious and meticulously decorated. I took a bath before lunch. I took another bath after lunch and one more when we came back from Victoria Falls. Yea, I made up for the time in the jungle.
Victoria Falls was about a 30 minute drive from the Matetsi and we could see the plume of mist that towers a mile above the falls once we were on the main road. At the falls http://www.vicfalls.com/live/ we spent several hours exploring the area and was amazed at the size. Rainbows can be seen from most every angle. I got very wet and spent the evening drying my money and passport. If a raincoat is offered, take it.
After a great meal and some talk around the open pit fire we were all looking forward to a good nights sleep in a real bed. Each of us was given a whistle as we were escorted by armed guard to our bungalow. "Do not venture out alone. If there is an emergency blow the whistle", said the young guard in broken English. Hippos and wild dogs were what we were told to be aware of, but my guess is poachers and thieves were more likely the reason for such concern.

Livingstone, Zambia
"Dr. Livingstone I presume?" A statue of Dr. Livingstone is prominently fixed at the Victoria Falls National Park. The Zambezi Sun is located next to the falls and we could actually hear the rushing water from our rooms. ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Livingstone,_Zambia ). We walked from the hotel site to the Falls several times over the two days we were at the Zambezi Sun. One trail leads to the upper head of the falls so that you are looking from the top of the falls. All I needed was a barrel so I could float down the rive and over the falls. I can see the newspaper headline now, " Crazy American barrels over the falls, lands on other crazy Americans swimming in the Zambezi River". Another trail leads to the great views of the wide expanse of the falls.
This is the place to buy those African souvenirs you just had to have. There is an outdoor bazaar just outside the gates of the hotel with most any type of African souvenirs you could want. They are willing to bargain. So much so, that I actually traded an old pair of tennis shoes ( still wet from my trip to the Falls in Zimbabwe) for a silver and amber necklace for my wife. Several other natural bead necklaces, that I purchased for nearly nothing, fell apart in about a month after I returned home as the humidity helped to hatch insect eggs that were embedded in the nuts used.

Repelling Down the Batoka Gorge
I gave my two son-in-laws the option of doing what ever they wanted to do on our last day in Zambia. We could not book the fishing trip we had hoped for, so we opted for a trip to repel down the Batoka Gorge. My impression was a short repel into this beautiful rugged gorge but once we were there I realized it was in fact 170 foot sheer wall of basalt to the bottom. As high as a 16 story building. What was I thinking! I have to admit I was having second thoughts. My two son-in-laws went first, both did a great job, appearing to have done it before. As I strapped on the harness and stepped to the ledge, I felt a slight pain in the pit of my stomach. Fortunately you are facing the wall of stone so your not looking straight down. I did very good the fist 100 feet or so. I pushed away from the wall , descended, pushed away from the wall and descended. Just as I though I might make this out alive the wall wasn't there as I swung in for another push. I had some how turned around backwards. With some slight panic, I descended in a free fall of about thirty feet. It took the helmet on my head an extra 10 seconds to catch up. By the time I hit the ground I was just barely controlling my descent and I almost knocked out the guide at the bottom. At least I didn't break my legs.
The walk out of the Gorge was a long hot trek. The scenery was fantastic but we were watching our footing more than rock formations and the river below. The higher we climbed the more out of breath I got. My heart was not only in my throat but I could feel it beating at the back of my teeth. What a fantastic way to end our journey. Dead tied, yet exhilarated knowing I had accomplished something few people will every get the chance to do.

African Safari/ Savute-Chobe

2008-02-07T08:54:00.000-06:00

Savute
Dust in my throat was thick. The drive from Moremi to Savute was taking its toll on my tired body. The one lane mud washboard road was the only road to Savute. Haven't they heard of blacktop or concrete? At times it was very interesting. Just at the start of the day See spotted some tracks that led us to a female lion with three cubs which were about two weeks old. The cubs were as curious about us as we were of them. At one point the female got spooked and made a very aggressive move towards us, then moved her cubs one at a time further into the underbrush. Later that morning a 12 foot python was stretched across the road as it made a fast retreat to the woods to the west side of the road. Baobab trees dotted the landscape and as the wilderness opened to a never ending savanna, a single Acacia tree focused my thoughts. The quintessential African experience, beautiful landscape, heat, dust and wildlife.

When we finally reached camp, Alois and Kedibus had already set up the tents and were heating water for well needed showers. The make shift shower system gave you about three minutes of hot water so you needed to lather-up fast. There was always the option of a bath in the Chobe River if you don't mind being lunch for a 14 foot croc. There was also a flush toilet which was placed over a newly dug hole. A canvas water bag filled the tank so at least the first two users got to flush.
After watching the movie the "Ghost and the Darkness" more times than I care to admit, it was a real thrill later that night to see two male lions walking along side us. Seemingly oblivious to us they strolled through the camp area and past the road to the river. In no hurry but with likely purpose they made a turn into the jungle and disappeared into the failing light. That night sleep was not gotten by any of us. Lions roared and called to other members of their pride and encircled our camp through out the night. See told us, " Not to worry, if you can here them your okay". Exciting , scary and what I had come to Africa to experience. Something came very close to my tent. Between mine and the tent of my two son-in-laws. Another hyena was my guess, but one of my son-in -laws swore it was a lion who made himself comfortable next to his tent seeking a warm place to lay. Maybe. There were lion tracks all around the camp by the next morning. http://www.africanwildlifeguide.com/articles/life-of-lions/elephant-killers

The next day was spent tracking a leopard. See felt we were close . The tracks were not more than an hour old. Lions travel with large prides, sometimes as many as 15 lions but a single leopard would be difficult to spot. By late evening we retired back to camp. No leopard in sight.

Chobe

As we drove from Savute to northern Chobe I practiced my Setswana with See. He got a big laugh as I fumbled the words over my tongue. I have always tried to learn a little of the native language in what ever country I am visiting. Sometimes it can get you into trouble. In a Japanese restaurant in downtown Berlin, with the little German I knew, I ordered from a Japanese waiter who's German was not any better then mine. My family and I ended up with something that I have yet to identify. And the price? I thought the bill was for the purchase of the restaurant.

It began as another very cold morning but by mid morning I had already stripped off the jacket and top shirt. We stopped along the side of the road to have lunch. See pointed out tracks in the sand that indicated a cobra had recently crossed the road. They move from side to side and leave distinct markings. We explored the area and though we did not find the cobra we did find a zebra's skeleton left to bleach in the sun.

Chobe is home to more than 30,000 elephants. During the dry season thousands migrate and congregate along the Chobe River( http://www.culturefocus.com/botswana-chobe.htm ). We saw large herds along the waters edge and playing in the river. Also, dozens of hippos made islands in the murky water which you could almost walk across from the shore line of Botswana to Namibia. A red flag marked the disputed line between the two countries. Crocodiles! Nile crocodile were everywhere. A five foot monitor lizard was heading straight for a croc that was sunning. We thought for certain the lizard would be lunch for the 12 foot croc but the monitor lizard just passed by. I halfway expected the lizard to high five the croc as he passed.

Our camp site was at a high elevation away from the river. It was safer being away from the large herds of elephants, hippos and crocs. As we took the road into the camp site the Chobe River was to our west and was at it's widest expanse. You could stand at the cliff over looking the river and see for miles. Namibia to the west, Zambia to the north and Zimbabwe to the east.

The next two days were filled with sights and sounds that only a camping Safari can give. We were all sorry to see our time end in Botswana but were looking forward to a real bath with hot water and a soft bed.

NEXT STOP.... African Safari/ Zimbabwe- Zambia

African Safari/ Moremi Wildlife Reserve

2008-02-04T10:03:00.000-06:00

Another Commuter Flight

Getting around Botswana by land presents a challenge due to the vast unpopulated areas and limited road system. Bush plane is by far the best way to navigate any long distance travel. On the way to the air field we saw large herds of Impala, Red Lechwe and a Kudu with a calf. It was not quite as exciting as the day before when while watching a heard of six elephants a young bull decided he wanted us out of the way. He charged at us from a running start of about 200 feet away, the water splashing under his feet, his trunk wildly shaking as he trumpeted. He didn't turn off to the right of us until the very last moment. Hearts racing and cameras flashing there was a palpable sense of relief when he finally turned. See calmly told us,"Don't worry it was only a mock charge. We would not be talking about it if it wasn't."

The bush plane taking us on this leg of the journey was fairly new and the flight was much smoother. The jungle below opened to vast open savanna with a sprinkling of termite mounds visible. I spotted a heard of zebras as they were startled by the plane's engine. Further along we could see hippos at the edge of a shrinking watering hole. As we approached the village of Khwai we could see grass huts sandwiched between the Khwai river and the jungle.
We were met by a new crew with Land Cruisers. See introduced the two men as Alois and Kedibis. They would be with us the rest of the trip , setting up camp, cooking and transporting us the rest of the journey. To enter the Moremi Wildlife Reserve
( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moremi_Wildlife_Reserve ) you have to cross a 1940 wooden bridge which was of timber logs floating on the water, held together by thin wire. Even the U.S. Corps of Engineers could have done better. Needless to say we exited the trucks and walked over while the drivers took a leap of faith and drove. Hippos were in the water waiting for the chance to do battle with any truck that might fall in. Large bands of baboons were working their way through the public camping area where they would heist anything not tied down. I had been reading about the problems with baboons in the local newspaper. The baboons were raiding camp sites, breaking into tents and stealing drugs. Baboons on crack! My guess is the drugs walked away with an upright walking primate. We went further into the reserve to a private camp site. See told us they use to camp closer in but the monkeys and baboons became too much of a problem.
The amount of wildlife in Moremi is unbelievable. During the two days there we saw lions, large herds of elephants, Impala, Red Lechwe, Roan antelope, hippos, more elephants, zebra, buffalo, spotted hyena, giraffe, kudu, warthog, wildebeest, jackal, crocodile, rock monitor lizards and multiple sightings of eagles and many other bird species and of course baboons and Vervet monkeys.

Dinning in the Bush

I had convinced myself to try what ever I would be feed on this trip no matter if it were some type of corn mush or fried wild dog. I even told my two son-in-laws that they should bring along some energy bars or other foods to help their hunger because I just did not expect the food served to us would be very good. I could not have been any more wrong. From breakfast, to morning snack with tea, to lunch, to afternoon snack with wine and then a 5 course dinner the food was surprisingly five star. And good wines, too. Yes we did have ostrich once, some kind of grain mush called bogobe and the breakfast eggs weren't always from chickens, but even that was good. When I asked the cook where he received his training he laughed, "No training , I learned how to cook by reading a cook book by Julia Childs". We tried to talk him into publishing a "bush cook book" but it turns out CC Africa already has one : http://www.ccafrica.com/safarishop/default.asp.

It Isn't The Lions You Have To Fear
If you have any doubt that this is not a theme park just consider the first night at Moremi. A female wildlife reserve ranger asked See to set up an extra tent for her. She was left alone for the next 2 days and felt more comfortable sleeping in an outdoor tent with others rather than a wooden structure all alone. That first night the hyenas were back looking for any scraps. Two weeks before hyenas had killed a young boy who decided to venture out at night alone. Lions calling for their prides cut though the still night air and Kudus "barked" through the early evening. At about an hour before daylight a confrontation broke out just to the edge of our camp. An elephant and a hyena were head to head. The elephant sounded like an eighteen wheeler reeving it's engine, then she would trumpet and charge though the woods like a bulldozer, knocking down anything in her way. I could feel the vibrations under my feet. The hyena would yelp and scream but not give in. We all trickled out from our tents and gathered around the camp fire knowing this was a dangerous situation. Even the reserved See showed concern. Should this elephant move our direction she would not be very discerning as to the culprit causing her distress and would likely crush what ever was in her path. The confrontation went on for over an hour with finally the hyena making a dash for safety. The elephant had her way and walked away in triumph. I could almost hear the musical tune Elephant Walk playing in the background.
The next day, after having a great day of game drives, See took a left on a dirt path and had to make an abrupt stop. Several elephants were blocking the trail. One female had a calf by her side. We started to reverse course but then had several more elephants behind us. Some how we had managed to get ourselves in the middle of a herd of elephants. The matriarch of the pachyderms would not give way and was determined not to let us pass. She made a mock charge and stopped feet from us . Then the other elephants moved in closer. After about fifteen minutes they finally determined we were not a threat and moved out of our way. Everyone sighed with relief. You knew it was a dangerous situation since no photo's or videos were taken.
I will talk about some lion encounters later. As long as you can hear them, your okay.
As exciting as Moremi was I was interested in moving on to our next camp site in the southern part of Chobe. It would be a long 4 hour drive on a dirt road. Dry, and getting hotter as we moved further north.
Check out the next post: African Safari/ Savute-Chobe

African Safari/ Botswana

2008-01-31T09:53:00.000-06:00

Maun to the Okavango Delta

We almost didn't make the flight from Johannesburg to Maun. I pronounce Maun as one syllable but the locals pronounce it "Mau oon". Half awake and a bit out of our element it took a while to understand that "Mua oon" was Maun, especially since they did not bother to change the name of the destination at the boarding gate from Johannesburg to Maun. On the transport bus to the plane we were talking to a lady from New York. This was her third trip to Africa. Last year she took a Safari by horse back. Sounded like it could be fun, but it turns out elephants and horses don't mix. A bull elephant charged the group, the horses began uncontrollably running, as the only guide with the rifle fell off of his mount. The elephant continued his pursuit of a newly wed couple for half mile before he gave up the chase. I can just hear the conversation between these two once they stopped trembling. " Africa!" she would say. " I wanted to go to the Mediterranean but NO, you had to come to Africa. I'M CALLING MY MOTHER".
When we reached Maun I was anxious to get the real adventure underway and was very impressed to meet our guide from CC Africa Safari Tours. Seilaneng, "See" for short, was a native of Botswana, what he described as a river bushman which was different than being a bushman from the central Kalahari. As a child he lived in the traditional grass hut structure and lived off the land and water. His grandfather from whom he learned his tracking skills was one of the first wildlife reserve rangers in the Okavango Delta.
( http://www.mindspring.com/~okavango/ )
Our bush plane pilot lifted us off the runway in less than 30 seconds. I could see my son-in-law's face change to quiet desperation as the plane took a quick bank to the right. With seats for only eight passengers every bump in a cloud was felt down our spines. Before we boarded the plane we noticed the paint job of the plane must have been done with spray cans and a few bottles of beer. At least the wings didn't fall off. The duct tape held!
The landing at the Okavango air field was surprisingly smooth given it was only mud and grass with a four foot by six foot wooden "bus" stop as a terminal. A minute or two after landing the Toyota Land Cruisers approached. We were placed in one and our baggage in the other. As we drove to the camp site we were met by Vervet monkeys and Impala. This area of the Kalahari desert is not anything that you would expect. There are large water ways and lush vegetation. The thick jungle areas show signs of elephant destruction with trees toppled and defoliated. Animal droppings are everywhere on the trail. Also, animal tracks. Our guide See points some out as we go. " Lion tracks, male about an hour old" said See. Yea, right I'm thinking he can tell this as we are driving on this bumpy mud road at 20 mile per hour. That evening I was to become a true believer in his ability as a tracker.
This particular camp site is a permanent camp. The tents are spaced about 50-75 feet apart with an outdoor dining area in the center. A 15 foot high castle like termite mound is it's center post. We are at the waters edge with a large marsh visible for miles. Having given us an hour or so information on what to expect over the next several days in the Delta we are off for a late afternoon game drive. As soon as the sun goes down the temperature drops. The open land cruiser is great for viewing but is very cold. As we drive we see more Vervet monkeys and Baboons. Several giraffe's heads and long necks peak from behind some trees. See stops for an few seconds and says there are several lions that have just passed across this road. He takes a quick right stops again to check out the tracks . "Two males and several females" he says. We are off again and in less than a minute we spot the first young male lion. Then the second walks across the mud road with just a mild interest in us. Three female lions were at the head of an open filed. They each took a position about 20 feet apart and began walking . The two males walked along the mud road to the left. Not a sound from any. What luck to see these five lions hunting on our first day. One of my son-in-laws was hoping to see a kill but it is getting late and buy park regulations we were all ready to be back at camp. See turns the land cruiser around and we are back at camp in about 15 minutes, happy to be standing around a warm camp fire.
I was not quit sleeping when there was a large boom out side. Hyenas turned over the dinning table as they were looking for food. They would visit just about every night at each of our camp sites. Before the intrusion I was being lolled to sleep by chirping white bell frogs that sounded as if they were hopping on xylophones. Then a leopard roars. Did I make the best choice of accommodations? Only thin canvas between me and what ever is out there.
We are awake very early. The "bush alarm" begins before dawn. Vervet monkeys start their howling then the baboons bark out orders for the day. An occasional elephant trumpets.
A large breakfast ( I will mention more of the food later) around the camp fire then we are off for the morning boating. Before we reach our destination our land cruiser gets stuck in the mud. See calls for help on the radio and help arrives quicker than AAA. Our mekoros
( dug out canoe) polers are waiting for us . Five boats in the water and one mekoro on shore with a large gaping hole from a hippos foot. Each poler stands at the back of the boat and pushes us along in the shallow water. This area
of the Okavango is a flood plane. Small islands of palms and birds dot the still water with areas of papyrus growing at the waters edge. Now and again a trail was sliced through the papyrus by crocodile. Luckily not many crocs are around since we are only inches from the water line and I need my hands. Eagles, grey heron, Egyptian geese, and large numbers of shrikes, egrets, jacanas, hornbills and cranes are everywhere.
Back at camp and it is getting down right hot by mid-day. Even the moneys are taking a siesta.
Continued .... African Safari/Moremi Wildlife Reserve post

African Safari/ Preparing for the Adventure

2008-01-26T10:02:00.000-06:00

Where To Go

Africa is a large continent with a large variance in topography, wildlife and politics. When I first began making plans I have to admit the Discovery Channel had an influence. There was a special on the country of Botswana and probably like many of you I had little knowledge of this country.

In the Discovery Channel program it showed a wealth of wildlife on large preserves set aside in Botswana. These large preserves encompass huge areas of the Kalahari Desert. At the northern edge of the Kalahari is an unusual area of rivers and finger lakes called the Okavango Delta. There is a large diversity of wildlife and as the dry season arrives the wildlife moves into theses areas and further north to Chobe Reserve. It was the diversity of the wildlife and the wide range of topography that helped me make my decision to visit Botswana. Before I made my final decision I began a search. I checked with the State Department web site for overseas travelers. Botswana is considered a very stable country. The Botswana government has placed a strong emphasis on ecotourism and the country has one of the largest public land preserves in the world. They also have a very stable economy. Considering it has only become an independent country since 1966 they have progressed considerably. I also checked with the Centers for Disease Control (CDC) Travel Health Advisory. Malaria is still a devastating problem in all of Africa and no less in Botswana. Any one traveling to this area needs to take measures for prevention of malaria. Also, AIDS is rampant. Bring along a friend with the same blood type in case you need a blood transfusion. These two web sites are listed to the side of this page

Next question, how to get to Botswana and what kind of cost are involved? I started a search on line and found many travel companies that promote African travel. There was a large price variance for Safari trips depending on the type of accommodations and the counties you wanted to visit. Just by chance I found Ebright Travel. Connie Ebright is an experienced African traveler who specializes in Safari travel. With her help we booked a trip that took us from South Africa to Botswana where we spent the bulk of our time and then on to Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Staying in lodges while on Safari did not appeal to me . After a childhood of Tarzan movies with Johnny Weissmuller yodeling his way through the jungle, I wanted a true Safari experience. To the chagrin of my two son-in-laws who were coming with me, I decided that camping in tents would be the best way to experience an African Safari. Also, it was important to me to have a small number people on the expedition. In this case there would be only seven of us with one tracker, one guide and a cook.

Timing is everything. It appeared to me that the end of May and beginning of June was a very good time to make this trip. The cost was less, fewer tourist to deal with and it was the beginning of south Africa's winter which hopefully would mean less bugs and less rain. With little rain the underbrush dies back making animal viewing better. However, I did not plan on the extreme cold we were to experience.

What To Pack

Here is a quick list: as little as possible! You will be flying by bush planes to the different reserves in Botswana. No more than 25 pounds of clothing and gear ( i.e. camera, back pack etc.) is allowed per person. This is a challenge for a two week trip. A comprehensive list can be found at www.african-safari-journals.com/safari-packing-list.html . If you pack all that is suggested on this list you will be over the 25 pound limit.
What not to pack:
Swimming suite; unless you want to be eaten by a crocodile
Razor and shaving cream; who are you trying to impress?
2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner; or at least not much; you are only going to
have one or two showers while in the bush, if you are lucky
Water bottle; there will be plenty of bottled water
Re- hydration salts; most of the food is already very salty
Birth control; did I mention you're only going to have 1 or 2 showers
Small unbreakable mirror; believe me you are not going to want to see
yourself after a week in the jungle
Compass; don't bother, if you get lost you're going to die
Deck of cards; unless you are going to play for money
String or rope; unless you are going to hang yourself after you get lost and
don't have a compass
Travel alarm clock; there is already a jungle alarm clock, you'll understand
when you get there
What not to forget:
Camera, extra batteries and extra memory sticks or film; we took over 1100
photos
Copy of your passport; leave a copy at home
Receipt for travelers checks; banks will not honor travelers checks unless
you have this
List of U.S.A. ( or your home country) Consulates in the countries you
are visiting
BugOff shirts and pants; helps reduce pesky bug bites
Pens & pencils; great items to give to the kids you will see along the way
Two pair of shoes/ boots; you can use old tennis shoes for trading
Travel insurance; some will even cover bringing your body home but with a
reduced benefit should you be eaten by a lion,since only the lion poop is
collected and returned to your loved ones
Now you can check out my blog about our arrival in Johannesburg. Always something unexpected when your traveling.

Smoky Mountains to Nuclear Testing as Art

2008-01-22T10:23:00.001-06:00

Huskey Gap Trail

Just back from Tennessee. What a fast eight days of rain, sleet, snow and cold wind. While in Pigeon Forge I had time, between repairing the hot tub covering at the cabin and waiting on the phone company to install our new lines, to check out a trail in Smoky Mountains National Park. Huskey Gap Trail is a 3.1 mile trail that begins across from the popular Laurel Falls Trail at Sugerland Mountain Trail Head ( www.nps.gov/grsm/planyourvisit/hiking.htm). Huskey Gap unfolds with a long steep assent on a smooth surface of leaves and rock. Fortunately most of the snow and ice from the day before had evaporated. I have to admit the strain of the climb, cold air and my age required I stop about every hundred feet or so to allow oxygen to reach my brain. Be certain to take a camera. I have learned that you can save face by stopping to take a photo while in actuality you are catching your breath.
This is a great time of the year to check out this particular trail since the leaves of the sugar maple, sweet gum and hickory trees have fallen, giving way to panoramic views of the mountains. It was about 20 degrees but once I was over the first peak of my assent the wind died down and I actually removed my gloves and unzipped my coat just a bit. I usually do not see much wildlife on these trails but since I was the only one foolish enough to be out in this cold weather I was hoping that I might catch a glimpse of something. With 1500 black bear, thousands of deer and a few elk in this park you would think I would stumble on to at least one animal. Just about the time I had forgotten about the wildlife I almost left some "rick scat"on the trail as a female cardinal flew from the bushes a few feet away. I don't know who was more startled , the bird or me. As I pushed further into the woods the trail leveled off for a short while. There were fallen trees piled high, having been pulled down the surrounding slopes by rushing water. An opening free of branches and underbrush happened ever so often and allowed for some great photos and deep thought.
An easy trail to manage, Huskey Gap Trail is one not to miss, especially during the winter months.

Knoxville/ Nuclear Testing as Art

The drive from Pigeon Forge to Knoxville was clogged with eighteen wheelers and holiday travelers. It made me wish I had a new navigation system in my SUV, one that would actually maneuver on it's own once you would punch in the destination and set the automatic pilot. It would also be nice to have a system that would stroke your ego. Turn on the engine and an airy feminine voice would say, " Oh! Rick you turn me on,". Or sit back on the leather seat and you would hear," Why, you must be working out, you feel so muscular against my seat back". Or even, " You don't have to ask for directions, you never get lost." But alas, what I really hear is ," Make a u-turn. You passed it up you stupid idiot". So even though I drove around in circles for a while we arrived at the Knoxville Museum of Art which is located at the site of the 1982 World's Fair (http://www.knoxart.org/ ). Parking is free and only a short walk to the front door. The cost of admission is a very low $5.00 per person with anyone under 17 getting in free. As we arrived a jovial attendant described the Michael Light exhibit 100Suns. He told us in a discernibly New York accent that the exhibit consisted of photographs of nuclear testing after the end of World War II. Did we just waste 10 bucks! I have to admit we were a bit sceptical and saved this exhibit for last. The museum is surprisingly small for a city the size of Knoxville and I was a bit let down by the quality of what I had seen. There are the Throne Rooms with miniature dioramas. Basically upscale doll houses. By the time we arrived at the 100 Suns exhibit I was feeling disappointed. However the Michael Light Exhibit 100 Suns was shockingly beautiful and thought provoking. He salvaged a part of our national history by using digital software and photography to enhance the photos of nuclear testing in Nevada , Christmas Islands and Bikini Atoll. It is hard to imagine that such a destructive force can also be so beautiful. The most haunting image was the dozen or so men that sat in lawn chairs, goggles on and within deadly grasp of the radioactive fallout. This exhibit will be at the museum until June 1, 2008.

Back in the car I hope to hear, " Why Rick, the seat belt is tight on you bulging muscles." Ain't technology grand.

African Safari/ Johannesburg Arrival

2008-01-10T09:23:00.000-06:00

Johannesburg, South Africa

We were traveling well south of the equator where winter is the reverse of ours. I planned this trip so we would arrive when there was less heat and fewer bugs. Malaria is something I can do with out. May/ June is also the dry season which reduces the underbrush in the jungle and makes animal viewing better. So we were expecting cool weather but when I and my two son-in-laws departed the plane, I though we had missed the mark and ended up in Antarctica. A very cold front had moved in from the south. There was a strong southerly wind licking at our faces. We were ill prepared for this frigid air. I hoped as we traveled north into Botswana things would warm. Little did I know what we would encounter.
I had been warned Johannesburg could be a rather dangerous place, as many big cities can be.
"Don't venture too far of the main paths" I was told. But I have to say my experience in Johannesburg was very positive. Our hotel, the Southern Sun, was just a short walk from the airport and we were all happy to get inside to warm up. It was an inviting space with a very friendly staff. I tried out the Swana language I had been practicing months in advance but my bellman looked at me in a blank stair as he placed my bag on the bed. " Tutsi", he said. " I am Tutsi", he repeated. "I don't speak Swana". South Africa is a mix of many ethnic tribes (www.africaguide.com/culture/tribes). Each have their own language and there are many dialects. I did finally find one worker at the hotel that spoke Swana. She was very eager to help me practice and she also got a big laugh at an American attempting to speak her language.
The first night in Africa and where do we end up? The Mall! My son-in-law's luggage was lost. After searching for an hour at the airport he resigned himself to the fact that he had no cloths. We were all traveling with minimal baggage, only 25 pounds each due to the small planes we would be flying into and around Botswana. We did not have enough cloths to share, so like it or not it was necessary to go shopping. Oh boy what fun! The first problem. We had not exchanged any money for South African Krugerrands at the airport. No banks were open. The bellman suggested taking a taxi to the shopping mall and maybe they would take American dollars. I explained the situation to the taxi driver. He told me dollars would not be taken at the mall. He would take us somewhere to get money exchanged and then take us to one of the better malls . The drive to the money exchange gave us a chance to see downtown Johannesburg. It is truly a metropolitan city. One of the largest industrial regions in the Southern Hemisphere. As we pulled into the mud parking lot I was skeptical of the place this taxi driver had taken us. It was an open bazaar that offered most anything you would want. Sort of like Sam's or Wall Mart but with out a roof. There was a fee at the front entrance so the taxi driver took me to a side gate. He talked to a Stoic thin man. The gate opened . "Go see Sotho", said the taxi driver. I have, in years past, exchanged money on the black market. I could never figure out how the exchange rate could actually be better than a bank. After walking around for a few minutes I found the money exchanger , made my way back to the taxi and we were off to Johannesburg's East Rand Mall. I had received only large bills so as I tried to pay the taxi driver he lamented he had no change. He said he would be back in two hours to take us back to the hotel. We could pay him then. What a trusting individual. Needless to say, he got a big tip when we were back at the hotel.
If you blind folded me. Stuck me in the middle of the mall and told me I was in Pittsburgh, but for the accents and South African beer I would have believed it. Every major store that is in most U.S. malls was in this mall. Plus many European designers. The staff at the clothing store was very helpful and they were quite amused by our American accents.
Though the first day in Africa was not what I had planned it turned out to be a very interesting day. The next ten days on Safari got even more interesting. See the post African Safari/ Botswana
( you can see more photos by clicking on the photo at the bottom of this page , then on Rick's public albums)

Alaska by Land and Sea

2007-12-21T10:05:00.001-06:00

Alaska by Land
The end of May, turns out, is a very good time to visit Alaska. It is a little less costly and a lot less crowded. We decided to take a cruisetour with Princess Cruises. This tour package included seven days inland and seven days on the cruise ship. Although I do not usually enjoy tour packages this seemed like a good way to see a great deal in a relatively short time. We had a very long leg cramping flight from New Orleans to Fairbanks. If there is any criticism I can make about this trip it would certainly be the four flight connections that was arranged by Princess to get us to Fairbanks. When I attempted to change this to a reduced number of flight connections I was told they could not do it . The cost to me to make the changes was very expensive and of course if our flight did not make it to Fairbanks on time, Princess would not be responsible for any delays or missed connections with our tour. So we excepted the inevitable and took aspirin, wore support hose, had frequent leg massages and hoped we didn't get blood clots while we sat with numb legs and blurry eyes.
FAIRBANKS
Fairbanks, home to more Moose than people during winter months, was a big disappointment. I am certain Fairbanks is a lovely city. I just did not see it. It is drab, flat land with much of it having permafrost. You can tell the areas of permafrost by the size of the trees. Even 50 year old trees in the permafrost areas don't grow more than 3-4 feet in height.
Riverboat Discovery was our first excursion in Fairbanks. As the sternwheeler Discovery II navigated the narrow muddy Chena River we were surprised by the many riches which we saw. Along the way we were entertained by a pontooned plane that landed in the river just to east side of the boat and then took off, after the bush pilot explained the roll small planes and bush pilots played in the development of the Alaska wilderness and how they are still important today. A small Native American village ( Athabascan) was on the banks of the river and we were introduced to their culture by native Athabascans (www.accessgeneology.com/native/alaska). We departed the riverboat and had a guided tour of the village. This was a very interesting worthwhile part of the trip. Thatch roofed log cabins with animal hides dotted the landscape. One small hut was built on stilts to store food supplies that would be out of reach of most animals.
Further down the river was Susan Butcher's Iditarod sled dog team. From the river's bank a team member explained the process of training the dogs and what the Iditarod dog sled race is all about.
Any tour with the word "GOLD" don't bother. Unless you have kids this tour is not worth the money. At the "gold mine" you are given a demonstration of how to pan for gold. Amazingly the mine owner pulls out gold nuggets the size of my fist ( slight exaggeration). After you pan for gold , you can keep what you find. You are then escorted though the gift shop where you are enticed to enclose your panned gold, which they weight for free, in a see through locket for $49.95. About $2.00 worth of gold, I don't think so. Skip the tour and instead "pan" for loose change in the hotel's lobby sofa.
OFF TO DANALI
Leaving Fairbanks by train is when the real excitement of the trip begins. The train ride from Fairbanks to Denali National Park was approximately five hours. It isn't long after saying good bye to Fairbanks' last moose that the glass doomed train's 360 degree view allows for never ending mountain scenery ( www.greatlandofalaska.com/reference/ranges.html). With great luck we saw moose, caribou,and beaver lodges. The last car of the train is an open flat bed with hand rails . As I ventured onto it, I sensed the Alaskan wilderness with the cold air rushing over me and the sway of the tracks. Taking photos was a challenge. The rugged mountains led way to open meadows of wildflowers and stunted trees growing over permafrost. We made new friends on the train and sampled the food and a few adult beverages. Cooking on a train must be difficult. I have yet to have a decent meal on any train, anywhere in the world. Is it the swaying side to side? The cook can't quite get the ingredients in the pot? Don't know, but I would recommend you sneak on some snacks, skip the meal and drink allot. Finally to the train station at Danali where we are whisked off in the comfort of Princess buses to the very nice accommodations at Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge. The room is very nice but rather small. Will there try the pizza at the Denali pizza. Not bad and a very cozy atmosphere. The first afternoon I hiked up towards the entrance of Denali National Park. Taking photos along the way. River rafts were being plucked from the very steep overlook to my right as helicopters flew in to their base camp hidden between the mountains.
Travel into Danali is not very glamorous. Old school buses are the only means you are allowed to venture into the National Park. Fortunately the weather was mild since there is no AC/ or heat. Caribou dotted the landscape. Not in the large numbers I was expecting but it is still always exciting to see wildlife in their natural habitat. There were occasional Grouse and Dall Sheep. This side of the National Park is very rugged terrain and you can certainly appreciate how tough the first inhabitants of this area must have been. As we were standing at the end of the gravel road a native Athabaskan described life here for his ancestors. The clouds broke free of the mountain and Danali stood out as a white tower above the Alaskan Mountain Range. We felt so fortunate to see this since only a small number of visitors ever witness such clear days.
Talkeetna and McKinley Wilderness Lodge.
Back on the train. Don't forget you snacks because this is another 5 hour train ride. Once again you are mesmerized by the continued beauty of mountains with rugged peaks, mixed with snow capped peaks and then a line of coal ore pops from the side of a hill. We were still able to pick out Danali mountain. An amazing sight. I could not stop taking photos. It is a good thing it was a digital camera or the cost of film developing would have been more than the the cost of travel. Be certain to bring an extra memory card for the camera. Most people took 500-1000 photos during the trip. I also took along my lap top so I could down load photos and video each night. Then I deleted the redundant and or just down right bad photos. By the end of this train ride we were all getting a little tired of rail travel. Talkeetna is a small town that is the jump off point for those brave enough to climb Mount McKinley. Next was a quick 1 1/2 hour bus ride to the Mt. McKinley Wilderness Lodge. I slept the whole way so I can tell you much. But before we started on our way a group of train mates flagged down a bus that was going to the Glacier Landing Tour. Although this is a very expensive one hour flight everyone involved said it was the most exciting thing they had ever done. A small plane lands on top of the glacier at Mt. McKinley. You are able to get out of the plane, walk on the Glacier and even drink the melting ice if you dare. An unscheduled stop at the base camp for the climbers supplies made this particular flight even more exciting.
Mt. McKinley Wilderness Lodge gets 4 stars from me. The rooms have great decor and there were great views from most rooms. With a little rubbernecking we could see the major peaks of the Alaskan Range. Mt. McKinley was a bit mysterious the first night. Twenty-four hours a day the front desk will give you a call when McKinley peaks from behind the clouds. Sign up for this service. Only 10% of visitors ever see Mt McKinley without cloud cover. Getting up at 2:00 AM is worth it. With crud in my eyes and my shirt on backwards I took my trusted Z790 Kodak camera with 12x zoom, stepped out of the side door of the hotel and was jolted to full consciousness as the peak of McKinley was breaking through the clouds. I rushed to the wooden observation deck at the rear of the hotel. About 100 photos later I was back in my bed. Little did I no that as the sun came up later that morning that the skies would clear even more. When we awoke there was not a cloud in the sky. The views that entire next day were unbelievable. Even the workers at the hotel were surprised. Some days are just blessed. Mt.McKinley, pure white ,towers well above the rest of the Alaskan Range peaks. I was able to get some very exceptional close up photos which really showed the ruggedness of these mountains. Sorry Rockies, sorry Alps you are no longer the best that I have seen.

Back To Talkeetna
Another bus ride. It went by fast. However, the train we were to board at Talkeetna was late. Already we were not to arrive in Anchorage until 8:15 PM. Now were would have even less time in Anchorage. I was a bit disappointed. Fortunately the long day lite hours make Alaska open for business 24 hours a day this time of year. We arrived around 10:00 PM. Shops and restaurants were still going full throttle. While I held a table in the restaurant Susie finished making a purchase of art in the gallery next door. One painting for us and one for each of our kids. When we got home the kids didn't quite get the art work. But that's O.K. we had fun picking it out.
The next morning, after a quick stop at the Alaska Native Heritage Center, we were en route to Whittier. It was a misty day, there was still snow and ice on the ground and the small town of Whittier popped out of the mist as the quintessential Alaskan fishing village. White tents were our entrance way to the Sapphire Princess Ship.
SEE PART TWO..." Alaska By Sea"

Alaska by Land and Sea, Part 2

2007-12-20T10:59:00.002-06:00

ALASKA BY SEA

Do it , Do it , Do it! Spend the extra money for the balcony cabin. It is the best way to cruise Alaska. It is a bit more expensive for the balcony so start saving your money now. Forget the six packs , skip a meal, sell the stamp collection. Do what it takes to pay the extra for a balcony cabin. Believe me when you are in Glacier Bay you will thank me.
I have to admit I hate standing in lines, so when I we arrived in Whitter (www.bellsalaska.com/alaska.htm) I was not looking forward to the usual slow boarding process of most cruises. To my surprise, I was right. I am not usually. Though they do make a valiant effort it is always too slow of a process for me. After standing in line for an hour we finally are ready to board when two overly chipper photographers want to take our photo. "Here buddy, flash on this!"
The Sapphire Princess is a grand ship. Impressive in all ways. Of course the first test of of cruise line is to test the food. So after checking out our"stateroom" we were off to the meal line. Most of the buffet food was good. There were a large number of Asian travelers and the food selections reflected this. The Sapphire Princess also had several restaurants, but I will talk about them later.
As I stated in part one, Whittier is a very picturesque. As you sail from port you have to think about the few people that stay behind each winter. The dozen or so who do stay behind face months of no sun light, no way in or out of town and extreme winter conditions. Do you think they ever watch the movie " The Shinning"? Even this day in May was cold and rainy. Most of the fishing boats were docked. The sea otters were the only fisherman out that day.
The first two days were scenic cruising. First College Fjord and then Glacier Bay. As we glided through the icy waters of College Fjord a National Parks Ranger echoed over the ships loud speaker system. He described the geographical history that created this unique water system. The sharp rugged mountain peaks stood above moving ice during the Ice Age while the rounded peaks were shaved off by the moving ice 10,000 years ago. It appeared that the bare rocky cliffs and snow packed mountains were within arms reach. When landmarks were described as five miles away it was hard to believe. We passed mountains of mountains and icebergs with harbor seals, sea gulls and eagles hitching rides. Through a narrow pass ( still miles wide) we could see Dall sheep, on the hill sides.
Glacier Bay

Day two. We woke up at 6:00 Am. This is when you appreciate the balcony cabin the most because all you have to do is open the curtains. You don't even have to get out of bed to witness truly one of the worlds greatest treasures, Glacier Bay National Park
(www.adventure-crew.com/parks/glacierbay.asp). Once the teeth were brushed and several layers of cloths were donned we ventured on to the balcony where I took another 300 or so photos. The views from the balcony were so great that we had breakfast and lunch in the room for fear of missing some fantastic sight. No photo or words can truly give honor to the panoramic views we saw that day. The multitude of up close encounters with glaciers was fantastic. Their blue ice, explosive sounds of ice cracking and the calving of ice walls as large sections crashed into the frigged water was surreal. What a whimsical day. As we traveled a Naturalist gave a lecture over the ships loud speakers. She described life growing up in this part of Alaska. Her father was a Bush Pilot. She explained the formation of glaciers and what caused that beautiful blue color. And not long after she described the various wildlife in the area we caught sight of three Grizzly bears just to our right. The three were foraging along an embankment 100 feet off of the waters edge. One was a light cinnamon in color the other two were dark brown. The scenic views continued the entire day.
That evening we had dinner in one of the ships showcase restaurants with new friends from Florida. As I sat in this elegant old world Italian restaurant I was trying to figure out how our meals were already included with the cruise , yet, here we were ready to pay for a meal just to be in a different dinning room. Yes, the food was good and the service was impeccable but so it was in the community dining room. My hat is off to the cruise line. We, and many others, paid double for our meal and didn't even complain. Well I did, but my wife stopped listening after the first five minutes. As for the food on the Sapphire Princess, you will certainly not go without on this cruise. I liked the buffet and the dining room food. After the first night we changed our dining arrangement from the 8:00 PM seating to anytime seating. This is a more relaxed way to have meals rather than having to fit into a pre-determined schedule. It's your vacation, do it the way you want.
Skagway
Day three we awoke to the the sound of train cars next to the dock. The White Pass Scenic Railroad was preparing for the day. Skagway is usually a drier area of Alaska but on this day there was a slight drizzle falling on the frontier-style store fronts. In 1898 there was a gold rush. Many of hardy soles made their way from Skagway to the Klondike. Few made their fortunes but many lost their lives trying.
We took a bus to the Yukon territory of Canada. The day was filled with unexpected sights. Going over the mountains through White pass was an experience all it's own. A forbidding place with the strong winds , snow and little else. As you come to the Canadian side it opens to a wide open tundra. Permafrost has stunted the growth of the vegetation. There was a slight haze and no wildlife was seen. It was as I expected from movies and TV. I was excited to be there.
Just as we thought this would be the scenery all day, things began to change. The sun was shinning and the ground was no longer covered in snow. To our surprise we drove into a desert.
Carcross Desert was formed from a sandy lake bed. Strong prevailing winds have stopped vegetation from taking root. It's name is a nick name for the town of Caribou Crossing. The small town of Caribou Crossing still appears as a rugged frontier town. Touristy shops line the main street. On the way back to the Alaska border we stopped at a small lake that looks like it belongs in the Caribbean islands. Dark blue water with coral green at it's edges. It was carved out by a glaciers thousands of years ago as so much of this part of the world was shaped.
Juneau
No roads lead to Juneau. Permafrost prevents any roads from being constructed into the capital city. This has not prevented Juneau from becoming a thriving metropolitan city
(http://www.traveljuneau.com/ ). When you are in Juneau do not miss seeing Mendenhall Glacier. You can get a very up close encounter with this 1.5 mile wide glacier. The glacier is large enough that it actually influences the weather around this part of Juneau. What we enjoyed most was whale watching. We went out on a boat at Gastineau Channel. Earlier that mourning a pod of Orcas had passed though. Although we missed them we did get to see six Humpback Whales. Two had calfs at their sides. Bring your own binoculars. The boat crew will provide a pair but the pair I was provide had so many scratches I couldn't tell whales from white caps. Luckily we brought our own. The captain also brought the boat to several sea lion rockeries. Fifty or sixty sea lions were lounging on the rocks and many more were in the water forming little islands of sea lions.
Shopping in Juneau? Sorry you are asking the wrong guy. Here's the deal, there have been actual studies showing that men who go shopping with their wives have a greater risk of heart attacks. I am only trying to save my life. Don't ask me about shopping.

Ketchikan
If you can, don't miss Ketchikan. The highlight for us was the Alaska Rain Forest Sanctuary. Yes, this entire area is actually a rain forest. Hiking the trails of this unique area revealed green dense forest with ferns and moss laden trees. The trees are noticeably taller than we had seen in other areas of the state. Many trees showed signs of bears sharpening their claws. This is home to a large population of Alaskan Black Bear which left there calling card of large amounts of bear scat ( poop) along the trails. Each trail guide kept a can of bear mase in hand just in case of a close encounter. Along the trail I caught sight of the Zip Line. It was promoted as
" Rain Forest Zipline, See the tree tops". Well after watching several people sliding upside down at a very high speed toward the ground, I do not believe they were actually seeing the top of the trees. There was probably some people "scat" below that Zipline.
The city of Ketchikan is a picturesque fishing village. It proudly states on it's city gate that it is the Salmon Capital of the World. The main street is a revitalized area of shops and restaurants that overlook a bay of fishing boats.

Long Day At Sea
As we left Ketchikan I was skeptical of the day to come. A dreaded day at sea. The weather was too cold for the ship's swimming pools to be open. Only a few dared to get into the outdoor hot tubs. So we ate and drank. Ate again and drank some more. There were still mountains with tips of snow at a distance and there was ice and water and more ice and more water and... well you get the picture . By this time I was getting a bit tired of ship life. Boring, boring, boring. Luckily I brought my lap top so I downloaded photos, savored the good ones and delete the bad . The night life on this particular cruise is hopping. Well actually "sock hopping". The most up to date music heard in the lounges was 1955. We watched as a group of senior citizens battled it out for the title of " Name That Old Singer". A fist fight almost broke out with competing tables as one man pushed ahead of an other man's wife to give an answer. Now I understand why they have AA meetings on ships.

Vancouver
Huge! Although I have been to Vancouver before I had not seen it from this vantage point. As the ship sailed into port we were entertained by the city's towering mass of buildings. Many were architecturally impressive. Most were very modern in design. The waterway was very active and many boats and ships were passing as they headed out. The cruise line offers additional nights stay in Vancouver. If you have the time it is a fun thing to do. Vancouver offers most of what any big city can with museums, history, shopping and fine dinning. It also has it's own unique flavor ( http://www.vancouver.com/ ).

SEE YOU ON THE ROAD!

New Orleans Home Town Visitor

2007-12-02T10:04:00.001-06:00

New Orleans

Susie and I went to New Orleans last weekend to play tourist. Although we live outside the city it is still our home town and we want to support it as much as we can. As we traveled over Lake Pontchartrain brown pelicans sored on the updrafts from passing cars. The Lake was deep blue and it was still. Low clouds reflected from the Lakes surface and remained me how much the water quality had improved since Hurricane Katrina. Since the disaster of 2005, previously known as Katrina, much has been done in the French Quarter to improve its cleanliness. There was a noticeable change for the better. However, it is still sickening to me that after over 2 years there is still much more to be done. As a tourist, if you stay only in the French Quarter and the downtown business district, you will never see the underbelly of the disaster recovery that is still very evident in New Orleans East, 9Th Ward and LakeView areas.

BIG EASY PARKING AT FRENCH QUARTER
If you are driving, the most convenient place to park is at the river on Decatur just down from CAFE'Du Monde (http://www.mapquest.com/). It is just a short walk to everything that matters from there. Just watch out for the horse "poop".

WE LIVE TO EAT NOT EAT TO LIVE
While we were there we had lunch at the French Market Restaurant and Bar. This place has been in New Orleans since before I was born but it was the first time I have ever eaten there. Usually I try to stay away from the tourist spots. We sat at a small table facing the bar. A bar that had seen many tourist and locals knocking back beer on tap and raw oysters. We were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the food. True south Louisiana cuisine at a reasonable price. The service was O.K. but what "T"S me off is when it is time to pay the bill and wait staff ask if I need any change. " Lady, I gave you a hundred, the bill was $35.00. What do you think?". When did such poor manners by wait staff start? The only thing that gets me more upset is when poorly trained staff are let loose on the unsuspecting public.
But let's get back to food. From the French Market Restaurant it is a short walk to Cafe Du Monde where you can get New Orleans beignets ( type of doughnut) and coffee. While sitting enjoying your beignets you will usually be entertained by nearby street musicians, or other street smart acts.
Another one of my favorite restaurants is MR. B's Bistro on Royal Street. It has great Barbecued Shrimp. It is a little messy to eat but worth it. And remember, don't refuse the bib. It cost me an extra $18.00 for dry cleaning the last time I was there.
There are some many great restaurants in New Orleans you may want to check out a list at http://www.nomenu.com/.

WHAT ELSE TO DO IN THE CRESCENT CITY
First let me say, don't try to out smart the street hustlers. Enjoy them for who they are but realize you gon'a be giving them money if you want to play their game. Best thing to do is ignore them.
It is worth a stroll around the French Quarter just to take in the architecture. Just a short walk from Cafe Du Monde is St. Louis Cathedral (http://www.stlouiscathedral.org/). A cathedral that is an active working church. It can take years to set a date for a wedding in the cathedral. Built in 1720 this Catholic church was the primary architectural feature of the city and some would argue still is.
I do not want to forget the Aquarium of the Americas (http://www.auduboninstitute.org/) which I believe is the best in the country ( yea, yea yea, I know Atlanta's is great but you will see animals here that are native to Louisiana and the Gulf Coast , several albino alligators for example). Also, there is an Imax theater next to the aquarium that has some really great short movies. You can check out the current movies at the Audubon Institute web site listed above.
Hope you will make the effort to visit our great city. Send me a question and I will be happy to answer.

Fall in the Smoky Mountains

2007-11-15T10:50:00.001-06:00

Fall Colors
The leaf colors peak usually mid October to November but this past year there was still plenty of lavish colors at Thanksgiving. The Smoky Mountain fall colors are more muted than what you will see at higher elevations in Colorado or upper New York state but they are non the less a sight to witness. I had the opportunity to fly over the Mountains by helicopter this past fall.
A rather cold day. It is not often that we get blessed with such a clear one. The Mountain had shed its mantel of smoke. A yellow and black helicopter gently landed 25 feet in front of us and a young pilot motioned us in. The blades were still turning and a blast of cold air bit my face. There was space for three passengers. I was able to take the seat next to the pilot. Who by the, looked like he had just changed from his high school uniform before he came to work. I was a little sceptical. " Where did you learn to fly, the military?" I asked. "No." he went on to say he learned from video games. "Just kidding", he laughed as he lifted off. Any concern of his ability was quickly laid to rest. He was a pro and made working this machine look effortless. We flew over rolling hills with carpets of colorful foliage. Over the city of Pigeon Forge I caught a glimpse of my log cabin and then I saw Dolly Wood Amusement Park to my right. It covered more acreage than I thought. A great place to visit with kids. Wholesome and prickly sweet.
There is a large open mine pit that I did not even know existed not 5 miles from my cabin. As we approached the Mount LeConte the pilot became a little playful. He waited until the very last moment before he pulled up to top the mountain peak. I loved it. I am not certain the couple in the back seat enjoyed it. They did not say a word the entire trip. On the way back we passed over Wears Valley. I looked closely for black bears but never seem to have any luck. Everyone who as ever been to the Smokies sees black bears, bear cubs, bears in the water and bears in the fields. Not me. Not since 1962. The last time I was the closest is when I was on a trail just off the roadway. I heard something large crashing through the under brush. By the time I made it the trail head, 25 cars were stopped. Everyone was running with cameras in one hand towing the kids in the other. As I reached the crowd of onlookers most were already heading back to their cars. I heard one say, "Yea, it was a female with cubs. I've got great pictures. Want to see?". "NO! but I can tell ya where to put 'em". Another near bear miss. I am starting to feel jinxed. The helicopter was back at the heliport before I knew it. A quick 20 minute flight that will last a life time or at least until dementia sets in.
You can check out photos by clinking on the one at the bottom of this page. Go to public albums and you will be able to see a variety of photos.

Mexico's Myan Ruin- Chichen Itza

2007-11-07T10:29:00.001-06:00

Chichen Itza

First the guide, proudly of Mayan decent, pointed out that the correct pronunciation is not "Chiken Itsa". So as you board the bus to one of the worlds premier architectural wonders you are given a quick lesson in linguistic acrobatics. For the first twenty minutes on the bus you keep repeating to yourself " Chi...chn it's... a" or "Cha... chin Ets'a" or was it really "Cha...ching"
as they keep rolling more and more tourist toward Chichen Itza.
( map 0f Chichen Itza www. internet-at-work.com/hos_mcgrane/chichen/chichen_index.html)

Our particular bus had a professor of Mayan Culture who gave a very lengthy discourse on not only Mexican and Mayan history but also gave his interpretation of how United States history and politics influenced Mexico. There was a very long history of Mayan civilization he stated. Chichen Itza was populated from around 500 AD until approximately 1300. With a 100 year absents of population around 900AD. No one understands why. The Mayan calender was of prime interest of this professor and he went on in detail of how and why it was developed. By the way, the calender ends in 2012. As we passed through a small village with thatched cover roofs and iguanas sunning on top of stone walls, my ears wondered from our Mayan professor to the sounds of a snoring passenger that had likely had a bit too much tequila the night before. It was a long bus ride and even though it was October it was still very hot and humid. I tried to enjoy the sights of the Yucatan

We finally arrived about mid morning. The sun was already high in the sky. We should have
had hats and sun block. Small children surrounded me wanting to sell their wood carvings and trinkets. Some of these were actually well done. One child approached me, " Senor, only 2 peso, only 25 cents American ", or " I'll trade you this carving for your tennis shoes". What a deal, my Nike Air's for a peso's worth of touristy junk. It was probably made in China. Elderly woman set up tables under the trees trying to obtain a little relief from the sun. Though you can feel the desperation I did my best to ignore the kids with trinkets and the elderly woman selling cloth strips and ribbon. I focused on the wonder of this Wonder of the World. Although we only had time to see a small portion of this ancient city it was still evident that it was huge by any standard of history. The first structure that catches your eye is the great stone pyramid, El Castillo. Steps from the ground to the top of the structure made me wounder how the Mayans, who were of such small stature, were able to manage such high steps. In today's world it would be a law suite waiting to happen. " So Mr. High Priest why did you say there were no hand rails on these steps?". I took photos from every angle. Some with the sun behind the pyramid, some with sun's illumination and some with trees in the foreground. One out of the hundred was so great I use it as wallpaper on my desk top computer.

Large serpent carvings adorn the entryway to the jaw dropping panoramic ball court, Chaac-Mool. Here Mayan men played for life or death. This ball game was played with the spectators perched on top of the 30 foot ( my guesstimate) high stone walls of the playing field. The looser literally lost his head. Carvings of the event are still well preserved on the outer walls, as are many more carvings depicting the Mayan way of life. At the end of the ball court is a smaller temple. Now most of the stone structures and walls are bare. Our guide pointed out a small section that still gave a glimpse into the vibrant colors that once were. A short walk and you are witness to a large alter sitting high on its temple with 1000 columns standing watch. I didn't actually count them but I'll take the guide's word. The alter is craved stone of such beauty that it is difficult to believe that it was used for human sacrifice. I over heard a tourist explaining to a friend that the people sacrificed were treated well because these were family and friends. "What? So if you gon'a kill me , being nice about it makes okay? Really?". While there the guides try to play down the sacrifice stuff but then they let it slip, if you walk down this jungle trail about a 1/4 mile you will come to a large hole in the ground the scared Cenote. Here young virgins, bad kids, the sick and others were "lovingly" dropped to their deaths 70 feet below. As the Spanish invaded the territory they killed many of the Mayan priest and burned most of their books so much of the culture was lost.

Much of the site is still under restoration. I look forward to my next visit when I expect great improvements of this historical site.

The bus ride back to Progresso was much quicker. I slept the entire way. Before you visit Chichen Itza remember go early morning. You will beat the crowds and the heat. Also, remember to bring sun block, hats and an extra $5.00 dollars if you bring in a video camera. Don't let the long bus trip stop you from seeing this magnificent place and if you can, stay over night at one of the near by hotels.
( you can access more photos by clicking on the photo at the bottom of the page)

Smoky Mountains

2007-11-01T11:15:00.002-05:00

Pigeon Forge, TN
Winter in the Smoky Mountains is a mix of snow and rain. This year has been more snow in the higher elevations and has beckoned many tourist to the area. Pigeon Forge and Sevierville area, unlike Gatlinburg, have continued to promote a Branson style entertainment center. I have been coming to the Smokies since childhood and have many fond memories. Though things have changed over the years there is always one constant, The Smokies.
First I have to state I own a log cabin, Hibernation Hideaway, just across from Dolly Wood and I am not above self promotion to tell you it is on a rental program with Patriot Get Aways (http://www.patriotgetaways.com/). We have continued to enjoy this luxury log cabin for years. Each bedroom has a Jacuzzi, there is a hot tub, two fire places, gas BBQ grill and game area with Foosball table. On the resort grounds is an indoor pool, outdoor pool, hot tub, exercise room, picnic area and a meeting room. You can check out the photos at the above web site.
The Smoky Mountains may not be as impressive as the Rockies but they are a beautiful wooded temptress. One of our favorite things to do while there is to hike the many trails maintained by the National Parks Service ( www.gsmnp.com/pages/hiking.html ). Anyone who knows me knows I hate to pay taxes since so much of our tax dollars are wasted. But, when it comes to our National Parks I believe it is money well spent. If you are lucky enough there will be snow at the higher elevations and little ice on the trails. I am usually not that fortunate. The ice can be a bit tricky.
Chimney Tops Trail is a favorite of mine. Some of the trail is very steep and the last section requires a good deal of caution when there is ice. On more than one occasion my bottom made friends with the frozen ground. With wet pats and deflated ego I would stumble on. The trail rises approximately 1300 feet from start to finish with the peak of the Chimney's being at 4,840 feet. This trail is very popular so be prepared to hunt for parking at the trail head.
Many more tourist from Knoxville and surrounding area come for the weekend, so if you can, hike this trail during the week. The trail is only two miles but I swear it feels like ten due to the steepness. Dress with layers because you will likely be pealing down to your long johns before you reach the summit. Winter gives the wooded trials a magical air and as you cross over the picturesque Little Pigeon River the wooden bridge sways just enough to make your heart skip a beat. This trail is still worth the effort even if you don't make the summit. Go as far as you can and just enjoy the views.
Hunger strikes! Usually by the time I finish a morning hike I build a pretty good appetite. One of our favorite restaurants is the Old Mill Restaurant in Pigeon Forge. This tourist destination sits along the Pigeon River. The food is served family style with usually more food then you can eat. More often than not I have to be rolled out of the restaurant usually swearing I won't eat that much ever again or at least not until my next visit. If it is peak season and a weekend be prepared to wait at least an hour to be seated. The time will go by fast as you watch the ducks along the river and dare I say it, an occasional river rat can also be seen.
Pigeon Forge is a great family destination. See more info under "Summer in Pigeon Forge" and "Pigeon Forge Fall Colors"